What’s the approved method of battery trickle charging.

As I've mentioned before, it's a common connection, so the busbar is at exactly the same potential as the pos pole on the battery, so it matters not.
JLR's procedure calls for external connections to be made to the busbar.
My only thoughts on this are for tidyness possibly.

The designs are changing as my busbar has about nine or so connections to it.
 
I have used the motorcycle OPTIMATE chargers for many years. Have one on the bike. But had one on a 911 for over 6 years & on my Skyline GTR for 7 years. Hardly used those cars & the batteries were always fully charged. They are not a charger as such only a optimiser. Also I have always connected them directly to the battery. Some say do not connect directly to the battery negative as it will give false information to the Alternator. That is not strictly true as when you have the optimiser on you are not using the car, hence the alternator is doing nothing. When you run the car then disconnect the optimiser before doing so.
 
steviegtr said:
Some say do not connect directly to the battery negative as it will give false information to the Alternator. That is not strictly true as when you have the optimiser on you are not using the car, hence the alternator is doing nothing. When you run the car then disconnect the optimiser before doing so.

I've never heard of that before?
The alternator is not intelligent, however the BMS and its components are on the F type, they are what control the generated output both V and A when the engine is running.

They are that sensitive to external change for example, when you swap for another, newer battery, the BMS system requires hooking up to SDD to be reset!

Like you I have the my bikes on Optimates, the very first design that was clunky and brick like, but it still works all these years later.
 
Until yesterday I've always attached my CTEK as the pic below, which I found on here previously. When I put it on yesterday the power light on the CTEK kept flashing and wouldn't work right. Anyone offer a suggestion as to why? I've ended up putting it directly to the battery and it appears OK.
CTEK_after_v1.jpg
 
I am about to fit a Ctec charger to my 2016 coupe.
The "How to" article suggests that I disconnect the negative battery cable before starting installation.
I am sure that will lose ALL settings etc., on the Car. Is there any reason that the Negative Cable HAS to be disconnected BEFORE installing?
 
Just to avoid the possibility of creating sparks that might destroy sensitive electronic modules.
 
Thank you SCM.
I was going to connect as per Chipper3 (Monday 28th October) but now concerned by all the previous posts that this may not be the best - anyone with electronic experience /advice.
I am going to use the CTec extension socket so that I can easily unplug the unit, so presumably, as there will be no power to the extension there should be nothing to make it spark.
 
01286p said:
I am going to use the CTec extension socket so that I can easily unplug the unit, so presumably, as there will be no power to the extension there should be nothing to make it spark.

Correct, the only spark risk is when the extension socket is connected to the car in the first place.
 
I'm another one with an Optimate 4 battery conditioner I use on my m/c. Now the Jag isn't being used, I want to connect the Optimate, temporarily from time to time with crock clips. As I have two batteries with stop start, what's the best way? A few days on each? Or is there a better way to do both together? Clarity on where to connect also appreciated, so far I think pos on the battery and neg to chassis?
 
Jaguandy said:
... I think pos on the battery and neg to chassis?

I'd think that'd be okay. I don't have the two battery system but I'd assume that the charging circuit would do both batteries at the same time.
 
Jaguandy said:
I'm another one with an Optimate 4 battery conditioner I use on my m/c. Now the Jag isn't being used, I want to connect the Optimate, temporarily from time to time with crock clips. As I have two batteries with stop start, what's the best way? A few days on each? Or is there a better way to do both together? Clarity on where to connect also appreciated, so far I think pos on the battery and neg to chassis?

I have an optimate 4 charger too (ex motorcyclist) but it’s only rated for batteries up to 50Ah capacity. The F-TYPE battery is 100Ah so this could cause issues, but if others have been using one successfully then maybe it can cope?
 
Jaguandy said:
Good point. I'll try it in a week or so. I also have a conventional charger to fall back on.

Please let me know how you get on
 
I connected my Optimate 4 to the car today in non-canbus mode.
The Optimate started up fine, showing a low battery condition and proceeded to push its max 0.8A to the car. After about an hour the condition moved to OK but charging, still full 0.8A steady.
So it looks like the Optimate 4 will trickle the car OK even though rated for smaller batteries.
In order to close the bonnet safely I used a tiny croc clip and wire (a multi tester cable) on the jump start post and clipped the charger croc to the other end of the cable. Earth connection seems fine clipped to the brake disc. Bonnet closed, so I can lock the car.
 
There's a negative terminal near the jump start post, any reason you chose not to use that? I've seen one guy who's run a CTEK cable into the wheel arch so he just untucks it by the wheel to connect the charger, and tucks it away again after use.
 
Jaguandy said:
I connected my Optimate 4 to the car today in non-canbus mode.
The Optimate started up fine, showing a low battery condition and proceeded to push its max 0.8A to the car. After about an hour the condition moved to OK but charging, still full 0.8A steady.
So it looks like the Optimate 4 will trickle the car OK even though rated for smaller batteries.
In order to close the bonnet safely I used a tiny croc clip and wire (a multi tester cable) on the jump start post and clipped the charger croc to the other end of the cable. Earth connection seems fine clipped to the brake disc. Bonnet closed, so I can lock the car.

Good news. Novel solution for grounding via the brake discs!
 
I didn't use the earth post as my charger croc is too big, risk of the bonnet hitting it when closed. The route via the wheel arch works well for the pos wire. It'll only take a minute to hook up each time now I've esrablished the 'kit'.
I hope this is useful info for those who only have an Optimate.
 
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