Seized exhaust valves

no need for a new box, or local garage
its very easy to lubricate and free up the valves yourself - get under, use copper grease only (not WD40 or equivalent), spray on the actuator and work the mechanism with your fingers to make sure it gets inside

Other options before even considering a new box;
Take your exhaust off, remove pipe/backbox and get inside to the actual valve flaps with copper grease, wire brush, etc - I did this, simple and worked
2nd hand box (around the £1k mark) - but appreciate the issue could happen again
Aftermarket system - cheaper than £2,200 and arguably 'better' - plenty of other valved systems out there which would come with warranty
 
scz4 said:
Sorry to divert from the conversation, but how do you find the VAP exhaust? Did you go for the valvetronic one? I believe it sounds a little deeper and reduces the rapsy noise, according to Stuart@VAP anyway.

I had squeaky valves, but not stuck. I got some hight temp spray grease with a "straw" attached, removed the vacuum lines and sprayed it in, worked the valves by hand and the noise went and valve operation felt smoother. You could try this.
Click to expand...

Sorry for late reply, not on the site much. I absolutely love the VAP exhaust, and yes it was the Valvetronic one. Very mildly louder with valves closed, and a lovely harder-edged bark at higher revs when valves open. Pops and crackles effortlessly with valves open which I had started missing a bit after one of the earlier software updates around the O2 sensors (K309, I think it was).

Not overly aggressive with vales open in my opnion, just a nice little bump up in tone!

Fitted by David Appleby Engineering who are fantastic too.
 
Was just going to ask the question re' seized exhaust valve . (first fault ! 2013 VS S ) . Seems to be stuck 1/2 way . I'll have a look underneath and try to loosen it up again .
Mine only gets v low miles/yr so i can accept that its seized due to lack of use.
Thanks for the info !
What garage ramps are you all using btw ? i have seen a few different types, some that look a bit dodgy ! I can maybe send a last minute letter to Santa then :D
Dave
 
I’ve found these 2 piece ones really good - wide enough for my 295 rears and light and easy to store.
You don’t get a lot of height, but also no danger of scraping front chin spoiler when backing on to them.
Used them for access to exhaust valves and to change diff oil.
Picked them up for a good price on eBay and quick delivery too.
FD078E8F-E6E3-4BCF-9A17-5B0CE1A76F93.jpeg
 
Evening all, please can someone confirm that when the exhaust actuator is operated the thread piece on the bottom of the exhaust will rotate 1/4 of a turn? Is it possible for the actuator to be free and not turn the actual valve inside the exhaust?
 
Fez said:
Evening all, please can someone confirm that when the exhaust actuator is operated the thread piece on the bottom of the exhaust will rotate 1/4 of a turn? Is it possible for the actuator to be free and not turn the actual valve inside the exhaust?
Click to expand...


The threaded piece doesn't turn when the exhaust valve actuator is operated.

If there was a problem between the actuator rod and valve/linkage, the actuator could appear to be free but not turn the butterfly valve inside the exhaust.

When the valves are opening and closing properly, you will hear the different exhaust note when selecting dynamic or pressing the switchable active exhaust button.
 
RPSN said:
When the valves are opening and closing properly, you will hear the different exhaust note when selecting dynamic or pressing the switchable active exhaust button.
Click to expand...

But as discussed at length in other threads, not at tickover, depending on the MY. ;)
 
scm said:
But as discussed at length in other threads, not at tickover, depending on the MY. ;)
Click to expand...


Not at tick over but by increasing the revs to 1500 rpm on my car, the difference in exhaust note can clearly be heard when switching from normal to active ;)
 
RPSN said:
scm said:
But as discussed at length in other threads, not at tickover, depending on the MY. ;)
Click to expand...


Not at tick over but by increasing the revs to 1500 rpm on my car, the difference in exhaust note can clearly be heard when switching from normal to active ;)
Click to expand...

Yes indeed! ;)
But selecting dynamic is the quickest and easiest way to check the valves are opening.
 
scm said:
Yes indeed! ;)
But selecting dynamic is the quickest and easiest way to check the valves are opening.
Click to expand...


Not at all.

Even when selecting dynamic (on tick over), the exhaust note on my car doesn’t change until the revs are increased to approx 1500 rpm, which is the same when pressing the active exhaust button.

Both methods are quick and easy but if you really want to be picky, pressing the active exhaust button is slightly quicker/easier ;)
 
Active exhaust valves are used on most brands these days. Do other brands expereince similar ?
When the car starts from cold the valves are open and then close. If they are beginning to "stick", won't this problem be noticed upon startup ?
 
santoshlv426 said:
When the car starts from cold the valves are open and then close. If they are beginning to "stick", won't this problem be noticed upon startup ?
Click to expand...


Yes, as the valves are open for a short while on startup, it should be noticeable if there’s a problem.

A further test (on tick over) is to increase the revs to approx 1500 rpm then select dynamic or press the active exhaust button where a change in exhaust note should be heard.
 
@Jaguandy

That maybe so but on mine the exhaust note changes around 1500 rpm when selecting dynamic or pressing the active exhaust button.
 
I wonder if it's a difference in the power of the vacuum pump, either by type, or by wear, that gives the diffence between cars?
 
Not really sure TBH?

Apparently early cars had an electronic pump to provide the vaccum and later cars have the vaccum from the engine?
 
Jaguandy said:
It seems some cars are different. I can hear the difference at 700rpm idle just pressing the loud button.
Click to expand...

Must be - the loud (or quiet in dynamic!) button has no effect in my MY!8 at idle, but is immediately noticeable in dynamic mode.
 
Jaguandy said:
It seems some cars are different. I can hear the difference at 700rpm idle just pressing the loud button.
Click to expand...

On mine as well by just pressing the exhaust button, or by selecting Dynamic mode.
 
I'll be sure to try the 1500 rpm test.
Lately, the car sounds very sedate. It's like driving the Lexus.
I really have to floor it + 3500 rpm to hear any change.
Yes I do hear it but i really battle.
When it starts from cold i know the valves are open. The roar is clear!.

On dynamic I hear a difference but again only gets noticed above 3000 rpm.
How do I check the software version?
There was a thread on this and for a 2016 model what should it be ?

I find it strange as theres a 911 and F type V8 in my neighborhood and even at low speed you can hear the rumble
 
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