Seized exhaust valves

[RPSN]

I'll be sure to try the 1500 rpm test.
Lately, the car sounds very sedate. It's like driving the Lexus.
I really have to floor it + 3500 rpm to hear any change.
Yes I do hear it but i really battle.
When it starts from cold i know the valves are open. The roar is clear!.

On dynamic I hear a difference but again only gets noticed above 3000 rpm.
How do I check the software version?
There was a thread on this and for a 2016 model what should it be ?

I find it strange as theres a 911 and F type V8 in my neighborhood and even at low speed you can hear the rumble

If you’re hearing the roar on start-up or when in dynamic, but it’s quieter otherwise, at least you know the exhaust valves are opening and closing.

See if you notice any difference in exhaust sound when you do the same 1500 rpm test that I did? Keep the driver's door open when you do it.

I recall some owners reporting their cars were quieter after being serviced and having software updates done but I think they were newer than MY 2016?

 

[wanner69]

Update guys, took it to a local exhaust guy who freed up the seized spindle which had carbon build up etc but still no joy with the butterfly valve operating so I assume its detached from the spindle?? There is also a tinny sound which could be the valve sitting in the pipe?? Can the valve be reattached to the spindle or is it a new back box job now. Thanks

 

[Anonymous]

My experience, I went for new back box. My car came with the button so I wanted it working properly. Knew, as soon as I collected it with new back box, that previously it had not worked correctly.

Suppose it depends on if car is keeper or eventually selling it on?

 

[RPSN]

@wanner69

If you think the butterfly valve has detached from the pivot shaft/spindle, to be sure, you could ask your local exhaust guy to remove the back box and check inside the pipes. If need be, whilst he’s in there, he could use a wire brush and some copper grease spray for lubrication of the parts.

Could be worth you having a look at this link too https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4635

If you need a new back box, as well as Jaguar's own you could also consider something like this from David Appleby Engineering Ltd. Although it's more expensive it's backed by their 25 year guarantee against corrosion and workmanship.
http://www.davidapplebyengineering.com/shop/productdetails/Jaguar_F_Type_V6_V6S_XPipe_Exhaust_Valvetronic_Sound_Level/638

 

[Tel]

Update guys, took it to a local exhaust guy who freed up the seized spindle which had carbon build up etc but still no joy with the butterfly valve operating so I assume its detached from the spindle?? There is also a tinny sound which could be the valve sitting in the pipe?? Can the valve be reattached to the spindle or is it a new back box job now. Thanks

The spindle can be re-rivetted, but it means cutting the gate valve units out of the exhaust system. It's a lot of work, i.e cutting and welding and fannying about. Labour charges would start to make it cost prohibitive perhaps.

FWIW - Ditch the darn things and weld in a straight piece of pipe.

 

[RPSN]

The spindle can be re-rivetted, but it means cutting the gate valve units out of the exhaust system. It's a lot of work, i.e cutting and welding and fannying about. Labour charges would start to make it cost prohibitive perhaps.

Similar to what was done in the link I posted earlier https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4635

"After being advised by various dealers/jag specialists a new replacement back box was the only course, I contacted a local custom exhaust company to discuss alternatives. The reason for this was because I could not move the shaft for the butterfly valve and coat it in any type of lubricant. I also hoped for a much more sensible solution."

"We decided to replace both the actuators completely in a job that cost 1/5 the price of a new back box and took 4 hours to complete."

"It was invaluable in helping me to find a solution and there is an alternative solution to just bolting on a new back box!"

"The company who did the works are http://www.stainless-exhaust.com/"

 

[Tel]

@RSPN - Apologies, I hadn't read back through the posts, but yes, exactly as you have done was my point.

 

[dbv6s]

drop the exhaust from the cats back - doesnt take too long, then detach mid pipe from back box and have a look inside
easy to spot, play with the actuators and make sure the valves are opening / closing

wire brush, copper grease

 

[RPSN]

@RSPN - Apologies, I hadn't read back through the posts, but yes, exactly as you have done was my point.

This exhaust job wasn’t done on my car but it goes to show that if the valves fail in this way, a new back box isn’t always needed

 

[brianmccann]

If you want a second-hand box then you're welcome to make an offer for mine...replaced it in 2018 with a VAP equivalent after covering 18k miles (car was bought new in September 2015) and it's been mounted on the garage wall ever since as some sort of trophy!

Sorry to divert from the conversation, but how do you find the VAP exhaust? Did you go for the valvetronic one? I believe it sounds a little deeper and reduces the rapsy noise, according to Stuart@VAP anyway.

I had squeaky valves, but not stuck. I got some hight temp spray grease with a "straw" attached, removed the vacuum lines and sprayed it in, worked the valves by hand and the noise went and valve operation felt smoother. You could try this.

What spray did you use? I've heard grease can trap dirt and make it worse. I'm using high temp, non metal anti seize, as well as permatex anti seize which is copper and graphite. Hasn't helped yet though.

 

[brianmccann]

Certainly worth trying - I use a copper grease spray and also aim some down the actuator shaft, so it also has chance to drip through onto the butterfly spindle. If you wanted to really give it a chance you could jack each rear side up for 10 mins. and let gravity assist too. Can't remember which direction the arm pushes but pretty sure it's in line with the axle so you'd soon see which one to spray each time.

What grease did you spray that could drip? All the copper anti seize that I have is more the consistency of powdery and doesn't really drip. Anything that is more viscous would burn off in the exhaust and this wouldn't really be "high temp". I'm having a hard time because nothing I use really gets into the valve.

 

[Lunar]

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/holts-professional-copper-grease-500ml-552777690?gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD1aCJjZMeItGi6YibYbcuQqxlRvR&amp