Exhuast Squeak

[ftype88]

Hello Ftype Hive mind!

Ive noticed something has recently started on my 2013 3.0 V6 S - when i press the open exhaust button I hear some high pitched squeaking as it opens. I then notice when i start to accelerate a rattle, sort of like a loose bolt sound. The exhaust note also possibly isn't quite as high pitched but sounds deeper than it did before. Im guessing the muffler isn't fully opening. Is it just a case of giving it a bit of WD40?

thanks

 

[Gasman2]

Spray as you operate the actuator manually when under the car and check for any loose nuts

 

[Lunar]

Might be easier to check for loose nuts once you’re back out from under the car

 

[cj10jeeper]

Couple of comments
This issue is fairly common and usually requires a new exhaust back box as one or both valves are wrecked. That’s circa £1600 plus fitting and isn’t covered by non factory warranty. I know as I have a new one fitted (for free in the end)

Secondly do not go near it with WD40. As the name says it a water dispersant. Use something that doesn’t gum up. I use Jaguars own lubricantimg oil, but these oils burn off hence not a real fix

Give it a try but there’s only one long term solution

If you purchased recently say and I have some other advice using consumer law

 

[Gasman2]

The valve is a really simply vac operated butterfly
The noise will be the actuator
Grab it spray wd40 move rod back and forth check little nuts holding rod in place
Dont waste money on jlr one get velocity ap from david appleby better look better sound better quality

 

[ftype88]

The valve is a really simply vac operated butterfly
The noise will be the actuator
Grab it spray wd40 move rod back and forth check little nuts holding rod in place
Dont waste money on jlr one get velocity ap from david appleby better look better sound better quality

I was looking into this - if i need a replacement is that your top recommendation? I also saw quicksilver and capristo. I'd rather fit an aftermarket if i'm going to pay the full whack, but hopefully wont come to that.

 

[nurgle]

I had the same issue, full exhaust box replaced by the dealer (returned in the grace period for fixing).

I would say that as this issue is so easy to replicate (turn car on, it will squeak, then rev to 1800-2000, foot off accelerator, squeak at about 1500-1600), should be something any used buyer checks for.

 

[ftype88]

I had the same issue, full exhaust box replaced by the dealer (returned in the grace period for fixing).

I would say that as this issue is so easy to replicate (turn car on, it will squeak, then rev to 1800-2000, foot off accelerator, squeak at about 1500-1600), should be something any used buyer checks for.

Absolutely. I must admit mine only started after a few weeks and it was noticeable that the engine noises changed. Bit annoying!

 

[ftype88]

So I took the car to the garage that sold me the car, the jag technician there thinks it’s a split hose or something minor, he did do computer diagnostics to check the engine that all came back perfect.
I did say from others experience this is a back box replacement issue but he didn’t seem convinced. It’s booked in for a couple of weeks time to get to the bottom of it, and they’ll cover any repair, but we’ll see. The sounds completely changed and they admitted that readily.

 

[Bobster67]

I'm interested in this as i have this very issue with my car (2013 V6S). I bought the car from a main dealer and reported the fault soon after in May. Am only just getting round to booking he car in for a diagnostic (tomorrow) so will be interested to see how things go.

 

[Bobster67]

Quick update on this. Car was in dealers last week for service MOT etc. Spoke to technical about the squeaky exhaust, he reckoned he had addressed the problem by lubricating the two exhaust valves. Sounded ok when leaving the dealership but by the time I was back home the squeak had returned. Spoke to dealership and am advised that the only real remedy is a replacement back box. Will be speaking to the dealer I bought the car from on Monday as they were alerted to the issue within the first 30 days of ownership.

Any advice guidance on this matter would be welcome.

 

[ftype88]

Quick update on this. Car was in dealers last week for service MOT etc. Spoke to technical about the squeaky exhaust, he reckoned he had addressed the problem by lubricating the two exhaust valves. Sounded ok when leaving the dealership but by the time I was back home the squeak had returned. Spoke to dealership and am advised that the only real remedy is a replacement back box. Will be speaking to the dealer I bought the car from on Monday as they were alerted to the issue within the first 30 days of ownership.

Any advice guidance on this matter would be welcome.

did this get sorted bob?

 

[Bobster67]

Hi, as per previous posts on this subject the back box is not covered by the extended jag warranty. However as I reported the issue early to the dealer I bought the car from they have agreed to cover the cost of replacing the back box.

Matters complicated slightly by the fact I that I live no where near the dealer so they have had to arrange for the work to be done at another branch within the franchise but closer to home.

Car now booked in for repair in early November.

 

[Tel]

The butterfly valve pivot shaft simply needs lubricating, you don't need a new back box. The service guys have not used the correct lubricant.

The problem with using any WD40 or similar spray is that as soon as the exhaust gets hot (within5 minutes!) the lubricating properties have disappeared.

There are plenty of cheap/correct lubricants that are designed for high temperature and usually contain copper or some other metal in suspension with a high melting point lubricant. Halfords do a can that's made for the job.

As said before, operate the valve by hand form under the car and spray it liberally over a day or two and give it chance to soak in and work its' magic.

 

[ftype88]

The butterfly valve pivot shaft simply needs lubricating, you don't need a new back box. The service guys have not used the correct lubricant.

The problem with using any WD40 or similar spray is that as soon as the exhaust gets hot (within5 minutes!) the lubricating properties have disappeared.

There are plenty of cheap/correct lubricants that are designed for high temperature and usually contain copper or some other metal in suspension with a high melting point lubricant. Halfords do a can that's made for the job.

As said before, operate the valve by hand form under the car and spray it liberally over a day or two and give it chance to soak in and work its' magic.

thanks for this information, its worth a try! Could you show me exactly where you mean to spray, is it the jutting pipes at the lower end of the exhuast in this picture? apologies for my fairly poor car knowledge.

And any specific spray you recommend which i can order to try this?

 

[XZ4]

Mine is squeaking too so hoping someone can help

 

[Tel]

thanks for this information, its worth a try! Could you show me exactly where you mean to spray, is it the jutting pipes at the lower end of the exhuast in this picture? apologies for my fairly poor car knowledge.

And any specific spray you recommend which i can order to try this?

You are correct!
The butterfly (exhaust) valves are actuated each side independently by the small round cylindrical devices in the lower part of your picture.

These ''actuators'' act on a small linkage (usually a rod) that opens and closes a flap (aka Butterfly) in the incoming exhaust tube to the rear silencer.

The flaps are mounted on a shaft that protrude through the bottom and the top of the exhaust pipe, these are in effect the hinges (these small diameter rod hinges can be seen pointing in towards each other at the bottom of your picture) and on one side the actuator rod is connected to it. These are the bits that get stuck, and eventually seize on F-Types.

The trick is, if they have seized (you can check by actuating the rod and valve by hand) then several days of applying WD40, GT85 or thin spray penetrating oil at the ''hinges'' and NOT using the car usually frees them up.
Once they are free, follow up with a spray grease that is loaded with metal like this.....http://amzn.eu/d/dWVSAh7

The V8 is easier to see as the flaps are near the exhaust tail pipe where the gases exit...you can actually see the valves by looking into the rear pipes. The V6 of course as in your picture is before the rear box, and you can't unfortunately get a visual on those.

HTH
Tel

 

[ftype88]

The trick is, if they have seized (you can check by actuating the rod and valve by hand) then several days of applying WD40, GT85 or thin spray penetrating oil at the ''hinges'' and NOT using the car usually frees them up.
Once they are free, follow up with a spray grease that is loaded with metal like this.....http://amzn.eu/d/dWVSAh7



HTH
Tel

Thats great thank you so much! Ordered the necessaries, now i'm going to get under there and try this next week - will report back!

 

[Tel]

Welcome - Good luck!

 

[Anonymous]

So 4000 miles and 4 months old, my right hand valve has started squeaking (V8). Blooming annoying isn't it! Anyway I've tried 3-in-1 Pro Anti-Seize Copper Grease, and WD-40 Specialist Dry Lubricant with PTFE. They work for a day or so, then it comes back again. Any ideas? Thanks