Aluminium upper and lower coolant outlet pipes
- Thread starter RPSN
- Start date
I can confirm that the aluminium coolant pipes I bought with those part numbers do fit as I was unsure I also bought a set with the other part numbers they are exact in size and fitment with one set having raised markings and the other having stickers I have the ones with stickers spare and would be willing to sell for what I bought them for £120 hope this helps cheers Tony
RPSN
New member
T50 YOX said:
T50 YOX said:Also if you watch the video Ryan Bengal posted he uses the same jaguar parts with the stickers on his car
Thanks for confirming that part numbers LR186859 and LR186917 fit your car. With regards to the other part numbers you quoted earlier (LR090630 and LR092992) and the photos of them you provided, they may fit but they are a slightly different design as I explained here...
https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=90079#p90079
When my plastic pipe broke, I took it to a local garage who look after a number of Jaguars (including at least one other F-type) - I asked them to fit the after-market aluminium pipe, but they refused, and would only fit 100% Jag parts, so I ended up with the newer plastic pipe design. I made sure to get the water pump replaced as a matter of course, and had the usual oil leak sorted....that was a year and a half ago now. Hopefully it will last for a while yet.
Hi All,
I have had my 2015 v6s since 2019. Bought on 17k miles, now on 38k miles and always garaged. I was worried about the y pipes. Booked into an Indy Jag specialist (EMS Jaguar) to get checked over and pro actively replace;
Y pipes + all associated coolant pipes, thermostat, supercharger coupler and water pump as required. I also asked for all cam cover bolts to be replaced as a precaution. Also had the supercharger oil changed. Water pump had minimal wear, but asked for it to be changed. Supercharger coupler was perfect, so that was left alone.
EMS would only use genuine parts and advised that they would only use the genuine Jaguar supercharger coupler if it needed replacing. Luckily it did not.
The cam cover bolts were rusted away to virtually nothing and one of the bolts holding the supercharger in place was severely rusted. It was a £2k bill, but with hindsight it was the correct decision. First “non regular maintenance” bill, but hopefully it will be good for another 10 years. After seeing the state of the bolts, I would consider this essential maintenance at 10 years on a v6 / v8 RWD car.
I have had my 2015 v6s since 2019. Bought on 17k miles, now on 38k miles and always garaged. I was worried about the y pipes. Booked into an Indy Jag specialist (EMS Jaguar) to get checked over and pro actively replace;
Y pipes + all associated coolant pipes, thermostat, supercharger coupler and water pump as required. I also asked for all cam cover bolts to be replaced as a precaution. Also had the supercharger oil changed. Water pump had minimal wear, but asked for it to be changed. Supercharger coupler was perfect, so that was left alone.
EMS would only use genuine parts and advised that they would only use the genuine Jaguar supercharger coupler if it needed replacing. Luckily it did not.
The cam cover bolts were rusted away to virtually nothing and one of the bolts holding the supercharger in place was severely rusted. It was a £2k bill, but with hindsight it was the correct decision. First “non regular maintenance” bill, but hopefully it will be good for another 10 years. After seeing the state of the bolts, I would consider this essential maintenance at 10 years on a v6 / v8 RWD car.
Lord Farquad
New member
Do you think the RWD bonnet vent location has had any effect with water ingress on yours? I’d hope a 10 year old car would t need new cam cover bolts!
My car is rwd with the updated vents and just coming up to 10 years old in the five years I have owned it always been garaged and not been out in rain if could be avoided. The vibration pads that are attached to the underside of the supercharger are sponge covered in plastic which deteriorates with age allowing the sponge to soak up any water basically the middle two rocker bolts either side are sat in water which corrodes the bolt headsAttachments
Lord Farquad
New member
Blimey, that’s interesting. Guess we all need to consider those.
Hello everyone,
First of all, apologies if this has already been discussed on the forum – I tried searching but couldn’t find a clear answer.
I recently came across a lot of coolant pipe kit listings on eBay. Most of them are around $100 plus shipping, and nearly all are from the US. Has anyone had experience with these kits? Is the quality acceptable, and what should I pay attention to before ordering?
For reference, my car is a 2014 F-Type 3.0 V6 380hp VIN ending in K12212. At the moment, everything seems to be working fine, but I noticed that the coolant level always stays at the minimum mark. When I top it up, the level drops back down to minimum again and then stays there – it never goes lower. The car does not overheat and runs normally.
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
First of all, apologies if this has already been discussed on the forum – I tried searching but couldn’t find a clear answer.
I recently came across a lot of coolant pipe kit listings on eBay. Most of them are around $100 plus shipping, and nearly all are from the US. Has anyone had experience with these kits? Is the quality acceptable, and what should I pay attention to before ordering?
For reference, my car is a 2014 F-Type 3.0 V6 380hp VIN ending in K12212. At the moment, everything seems to be working fine, but I noticed that the coolant level always stays at the minimum mark. When I top it up, the level drops back down to minimum again and then stays there – it never goes lower. The car does not overheat and runs normally.
Any advice or recommendations would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks in advance
RPSN
New member
In regard to the coolant pipe kits from the US, have a read through my original post in this topic.
As the coolant level on your car never goes below the minimum mark, it doesn't overheat and runs normally then you shouldn't have any concerns. However, if you want to replace the upper and lower coolant outlet pipes (to be on the safe side), go for the genuine JLR aluminium ones as discussed in this thread.
As the coolant level on your car never goes below the minimum mark, it doesn't overheat and runs normally then you shouldn't have any concerns. However, if you want to replace the upper and lower coolant outlet pipes (to be on the safe side), go for the genuine JLR aluminium ones as discussed in this thread.
Thank you for your reply.
I have contacted my local service in Slovenia, but they are only interested in the exact part (catalogue) numbers. They are not willing to help me based on the VIN number, so I am not sure which part numbers I actually need to order.
Regarding the coolant level — when I open the cap after driving (with the engine turned off), the coolant starts bubbling out and there is a lot of pressure inside the system. It usually pushes out around 1 dl of coolant.
The car does not produce any white smoke, it runs smoothly, and when I changed the engine oil I did not notice any signs of water in the oil. There are also no visible signs of external coolant leaks anywhere on the engine, and there is never any coolant under the car.
This is why I am concerned and wondering if I might be worrying for no reason, or if this could be an early symptom of a blown head gasket. The car has 145,000 km on it.
I have contacted my local service in Slovenia, but they are only interested in the exact part (catalogue) numbers. They are not willing to help me based on the VIN number, so I am not sure which part numbers I actually need to order.
Regarding the coolant level — when I open the cap after driving (with the engine turned off), the coolant starts bubbling out and there is a lot of pressure inside the system. It usually pushes out around 1 dl of coolant.
The car does not produce any white smoke, it runs smoothly, and when I changed the engine oil I did not notice any signs of water in the oil. There are also no visible signs of external coolant leaks anywhere on the engine, and there is never any coolant under the car.
This is why I am concerned and wondering if I might be worrying for no reason, or if this could be an early symptom of a blown head gasket. The car has 145,000 km on it.
RPSN
New member
The exact part numbers for the upper and lower coolant outlet pipes on your car (VIN ending in K12212) are shown earlier in this thread... https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=90079#p90079
i.e. Upper: C2Z28536 / Lower: C2Z29893
Also are the Land Rover part numbers for the aluminium pipes LR186859 and LR186917. These will fit your car as they did with members DaddyDarren and T50 YOX.
In regard to..."when I open the cap after driving (with the engine turned off), the coolant starts bubbling out and there is a lot of pressure inside the system. It usually pushes out around 1 dl of coolant." Do you wait until the engine has cooled down completely before doing so? Reason being that coolant expands with heat and causes pressure in the system. Also, the last thing you want is boiling coolant scalding you and going over the car's paintwork. If any goes onto the paintwork or runs down into the engine bay you should rinse it off with clean water as soon as possible.
I’m assuming the coolant in the expansion tank is not discoloured and doesn’t have an oily smell?
To me, it doesn’t sound like you’ve got anything to be concerned about but as you’re car is a 2014 model with 145,000 km on the clock you may wish to change the coolant pipes to be on the safe side?
Another member recently posted a question here https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=9439 which included...
“Once everything was back together and topped up, I checked the system—now it’s bubbling up into the coolant reservoir straight away.”
This is my reply https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=92835#p92835
i.e. Upper: C2Z28536 / Lower: C2Z29893
Also are the Land Rover part numbers for the aluminium pipes LR186859 and LR186917. These will fit your car as they did with members DaddyDarren and T50 YOX.
In regard to..."when I open the cap after driving (with the engine turned off), the coolant starts bubbling out and there is a lot of pressure inside the system. It usually pushes out around 1 dl of coolant." Do you wait until the engine has cooled down completely before doing so? Reason being that coolant expands with heat and causes pressure in the system. Also, the last thing you want is boiling coolant scalding you and going over the car's paintwork. If any goes onto the paintwork or runs down into the engine bay you should rinse it off with clean water as soon as possible.
I’m assuming the coolant in the expansion tank is not discoloured and doesn’t have an oily smell?
To me, it doesn’t sound like you’ve got anything to be concerned about but as you’re car is a 2014 model with 145,000 km on the clock you may wish to change the coolant pipes to be on the safe side?
Another member recently posted a question here https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=9439 which included...
“Once everything was back together and topped up, I checked the system—now it’s bubbling up into the coolant reservoir straight away.”
This is my reply https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=92835#p92835
cj10jeeper
New member
Icexz said:
On this point you reference opening the cap after driving. Are you allowing the engine to fully cool off first, which could take an hour or more?
If not you’re likely causing your own problem as opening the cap allows the pressure to decrease to atmospheric and thus lowered the coolant boiling point. It’s highly likely on any car the coolant will bubble or expand and overflow. You can also induce air pockets into the system, thus creating more issues next time you drive and coolant level dropping.
RPSN
New member
Yes, the JLR aluminium upper and lower coolant outlet pipes are a wise choice.
If I were to replace the water pump I'd go for the original Jaguar part. This link shows the water pump parts info for your MY16 V8 R (part number AJ813909)...
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/152.1078.2456.11491/brand/jaguar/
Member DaddyDarren had this done on his car and he posted some pics and details earlier in this topic...
https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=90161#p90161
If I were to replace the water pump I'd go for the original Jaguar part. This link shows the water pump parts info for your MY16 V8 R (part number AJ813909)...
https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/152.1078.2456.11491/brand/jaguar/
Member DaddyDarren had this done on his car and he posted some pics and details earlier in this topic...
https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=90161#p90161
Kuhli007 said:
My specialist would only install a genuine Jaguar water pump. Pump that came out had minimal wear after 37k miles.
P.s. I may be overly precautious, as I have a lot of history with failing water pumps on BMW’s ( 3 on a 1999 BMW 740 from 70 to 210k miles over 6 years). One on a 735 at 60k miles, one on a 330 at 60k miles and one on an x3 3.0 at 70k miles.