Wrapping the sills

[RPSN]

FWIW - Our V8R came with colour coded sills. Our V8S prior has matté black sills. The colour coded type make the car look bloated around the midriff IMO.

First thing was to wrap them in Piano Black along with the front aero splitters, result, 'slimmer' looking car. The black was then overwrapped with xpel healable film which, has been astonishing in the 7 years of driving.

When we met with Ian Callum, he agreed that the black compliments his design compared to the colour coded type. That'll do it for me.
He mentioned that he was rather miffed the he had no control over colour the designers added to his body design.

Do it, worst thing is you don't like it and you pull the film off, but I'm confident once you do, you'll wish you'd done it earlier...No visible brake dust and appear cleaner for ages, especially on a White car.

Looking at the OP’s two pics (attached), IMO his car looks better without the black wrap on the sills, giving the effect of a 'beefy' midriff. Also, as the OP says.....it "spoils the lines and makes the car look higher off the ground."

However, as you say, if he did do it and didn't like it, he could always pull the film off.

After washing with water and Fairy or Maid in the USA, use a soft MF cloth soaked in petrol. It is all you need to remove the sticky bitchumen.

I wouldn't use petrol on white paint. Needs thorough washing off in case it stains. Had to help my neighbour with that recently, when his car became covered in yellow blotches.

I wouldn’t use neat petrol on any car paintwork to remove tar etc. Although it evaporates, it can leave marks and damage the clear coat.

 

[Philskill]

That’s another strong solvent based product that I wouldn’t put anywhere near my F-Type’s paintwork!

Here’s some info to bear in mind, taken from the Gtechniq website.....https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/wash-decon/w7-tar-and-glue-remover/#application

“IMPORTANT: Do not allow W7 to come into contact with plastics, rubber or vinyl – wipe any overspray immediately. It is not suitable for use on PPF, smart repairs or wrapped vehicles.”

Yes don't use near plastics, use it with care and for it's purpose, removing Tar off Paintwork. Been using it on my RR for 10 years, the plastics (and Paintwork) are still absolutely perfect! (Helped by the fact they were treated with C4 when new which has kept them black for years!)

 

[RPSN]

That’s another strong solvent based product that I wouldn’t put anywhere near my F-Type’s paintwork!

Here’s some info to bear in mind, taken from the Gtechniq website.....https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/wash-decon/w7-tar-and-glue-remover/#application

“IMPORTANT: Do not allow W7 to come into contact with plastics, rubber or vinyl – wipe any overspray immediately. It is not suitable for use on PPF, smart repairs or wrapped vehicles.”

Yes don't use near plastics, use it with care and for it's purpose, removing Tar off Paintwork. Been using it on my RR for 10 years, the plastics (and Paintwork) are still absolutely perfect! (Helped by the fact they were treated with C4 when new which has kept them black for years!)

Remember this topic is entitled ‘Wrapping the sills’. Also that PPF is applied by the manufacturer on the rear end of the sills and some owners have had it applied on other sections including both sills. Furthermore, some cars have had smart repairs.

With regards to this and to reiterate what the Gtechniq website says for the W7 Tar and Glue Remover product....

“IMPORTANT: Do not allow W7 to come into contact with plastics, rubber or vinyl – wipe any overspray immediately. It is not suitable for use on PPF, smart repairs or wrapped vehicles.”

 

[Philskill]

Bit confused there RPSN, Whilst the title is "Wrapping the Sills" the subject is clearly that the Op does not like the Tar (who does), and was thinking of ways to hide it, thus others suggesting what they do to remove the tar instead of Wrapping in Black seems a perfectly valid thing to do, you did so yourself? pointing out what i've done to remove Tar for 10 years successfully is also valid...? The Op clearly does not have a PPF as he's thinking to wrap it...

You suggested T_Cut Metallic, it's a good product, it is a mild cutting polish each time you tar remove, not ideal if you have ceramic coatings
or LSP's applied, and it says will remove scratches so it is cutting away your clear coat each time slightly.

Any solutions based remover like W7 is going to be oil based to be able to attack/soften the tar.. As suggested fuel/spirits or specific removers. The downside of these, is any oil based chemical is not good for any bare plastics based materials and thus PPF, so care must be used, don't just spray liberally. gTechniq are open about this... as you've pointed out (twice) not sure all tar remover manufactures are this open.. but the affects will be the same.

Claying is another option, very good at removing Tar, less abrasive than a cutting polish if done properly, but can induce fine marring if not done with care too.

Meguires do Gold Class Tar remover, and many others, but some will cut, some will be oil based.. you have to attack the Tar somehow.

They are all good in their own ways and amount of effort required.

Or the Op could wrap the sills in Black as he suggests and forget the tar is there... actually I was shocked how much my old Black car had when I detailed it, as I hadn't noticed it, whereas I always see it on my White RR so am always keeping on top of it.

All the solutions have their merit and their downs, you do your research, and takes your pick, it's a sticky subject .

PS Op, in my view don't wrap the sills black!

 

[Tel]

Petrol after a long time can stain paint - If you're likely to be soaking your car for long periods, then I suggest coming down the scale to lighter fluid or paraffin/turps perhaps


The original pictures posted, don't represent the true size of the sills, but look more like the 80's when we used to underseal over dodgy welding on MK1 Escort sills!
To the wrapping scenario, I have been through my hoard of pics to hopefully illustrate my point...

Here is our V8R when new in 2015. Bloaty, Mc Bloatface:




Here it is after my treatment of Black sills, Aero then PPF over the top:





As another reference, here's the first F we had, a 2014 V8S with black sills from factory:



I'm firmly in the Callum camp of Black bits!

 

[RPSN]

Bit confused there RPSN, Whilst the title is "Wrapping the Sills" the subject is clearly that the Op does not like the Tar (who does), and was thinking of ways to hide it, thus others suggesting what they do to remove the tar instead of Wrapping in Black seems a perfectly valid thing to do, you did so yourself? pointing out what i've done to remove Tar for 10 years successfully is also valid...? The Op clearly does not have a PPF as he's thinking to wrap it...

You suggested T_Cut Metallic, it's a good product, it is a mild cutting polish each time you tar remove, not ideal if you have ceramic coatings or LSP's applied, and it says will remove scratches so it is cutting away your clear coat each time slightly.

Any solutions based remover like W7 is going to be oil based to be able to attack/soften the tar.. As suggested fuel/spirits or specific removers. The downside of these, is any oil based chemical is not good for any bare plastics based materials and thus PPF, so care must be used, don't just spray liberally. gTechniq are open about this... as you've pointed out (twice) not sure all tar remover manufactures are this open.. but the affects will be the same.

Claying is another option, very good at removing Tar, less abrasive than a cutting polish if done properly, but can induce fine marring if not done with care too.

Meguires do Gold Class Tar remover, and many others, but some will cut, some will be oil based.. you have to attack the Tar somehow.

They are all good in their own ways and amount of effort required.

Or the Op could wrap the sills in Black as he suggests and forget the tar is there... actually I was shocked how much my old Black car had when I detailed it, as I hadn't noticed it, whereas I always see it on my White RR so am always keeping on top of it.

All the solutions have their merit and their downs, you do your research, and takes your pick, it's a sticky subject .

PS Op, in my view don't wrap the sills black!

Looks like it’s a case of confused.com here Philskill :roll:

The sills (body side mouldings) and most side skirts are made of plastic and this is the area where the OP is having issues with tar spots etc. Guess what the Gtechniq website says for the W7 Tar and Glue Remover product (third time lucky).....

“IMPORTANT: Do not allow W7 to come into contact with plastics, rubber or vinyl – wipe any overspray immediately. It is not suitable for use on PPF, smart repairs or wrapped vehicles.”

Anyhow, it’s good to see that the OP has found a suitable Bug & Tar removing product which is safe to use without the risk of any damage to painted surfaces and most plastics etc. He also appears to have made his mind up on whether or not to wrap the sills (the majority have agreed with him including you and I).....

Many thanks, everyone. I thought there would be some comments about the aesthetics! I agree, spoils the lines and makes the car look higher off the ground.

To my surprise, this product, which has a mild acidic base, seems to work well. I'll look for the T-cut too.

The real answer is to teach Australian road workers how to repair roads!

Thanks again

 

[ralphr1780]

It is also possible to go for a little more artistic wrap, inspiration here:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=diiPKOnqqNI
Not very harmonious with the tan interior :roll:

 

[Pilot Pete]

Get yourself some Autosmart Tardis. I also bought some of those ridiculously cheap, crap quality microfibre towels and use one every now and again with a bit of Tardis on it to simply wipe away the tar spots. They literally dissolve with a few rubs. I then wash off the Tardis immediately with soapy suds before washing the rest of the car fully. I bin the microfibre.

It will strip any wax/ LSP so after using it and thoroughly cleaning the car I apply fresh wax to the sills.

Trust me, it really is that good. https://autosmart.co.uk/shop/tardis-1l

That is a very poor recommendation indeed. Autosmart Tardis is a trade strength solvent based cleaner which can damage the paintwork (I mentioned the effects of strong solvents in my earlier post).

Taken from the link https://autosmart.co.uk/shop/tardis-1l .....

Question: Can I use Tardis on all surfaces?

Answer: No, some paints and plastics may be damaged by solvent cleaners. If in doubt test before use on a small inconspicuous area. Do not use on aerosol paint finishes, uncured paint or vehicle interiors.

I didn’t recommend using it on bare plastic, I recommended using it on paint.

 

[Pilot Pete]

I should add, cured paint like I have on my car, not rattle can or smart repaired areas, which is exactly what it says it can be used on.

 

[RPSN]

I didn’t recommend using it on bare plastic, I recommended using it on paint.

I should add, cured paint like I have on my car, not rattle can or smart repaired areas, which is exactly what it says it can be used on.

Unfortunately that paint happens to be on the plastic sills/skirts where the tar spots are. I certainly wouldn’t use a powerful trade strength solvent based cleaner on my car’s sills that says....

“Question: Can I use Tardis on all surfaces?”

“Answer: No, some paints and plastics may be damaged by solvent cleaners. If in doubt test before use on a small inconspicuous area. Do not use on aerosol paint finishes, uncured paint or vehicle interiors.”

 

[Pilot Pete]

But it’s not being used on the plastic, it’s being used on the cured paint that covers the plastic. And I can confirm that works as intended - to remove tar spots, just like on any other paintwork. What you don’t want to do is use it on bare plastic. If the end user follows the advice offered by the manufacturer they won’t have a problem.

 

[RPSN]

But it’s not being used on the plastic, it’s being used on the cured paint that covers the plastic. And I can confirm that works as intended - to remove tar spots, just like on any other paintwork. What you don’t want to do is use it on bare plastic. If the end user follows the advice offered by the manufacturer they won’t have a problem.

Exactly your point....."it’s being used on the cured paint that covers the plastic."

There are products for removing tar which are safe to use on paint and plastics etc, so why on earth use one where the manufacturer says....

“Question: Can I use Tardis on all surfaces?”

“Answer: No, some paints and plastics may be damaged by solvent cleaners. If in doubt test before use on a small inconspicuous area. Do not use on aerosol paint finishes, uncured paint or vehicle interiors.”

As long as it works for you that’s fine. However, the ‘Tardis, powerful trade strength solvent based cleaner’ won’t be coming anywhere near the sills etc on my car.

 

[cj10jeeper]

But it’s not being used on the plastic, it’s being used on the cured paint that covers the plastic. And I can confirm that works as intended - to remove tar spots, just like on any other paintwork. What you don’t want to do is use it on bare plastic. If the end user follows the advice offered by the manufacturer they won’t have a problem.

Totally agree with you.
Such products used on the clear coat lacquer, on top of multiple coats of paint and primer is totally safe and will get nowhere near the underlying plastics. Provide the paint is cured and not smart repaired I see no risk at all. I’d happily use any such product or petrol, cleaned off afterwards and rewaxed, over any kind of polish, which by nature is an abrasive.

 

[Pilot Pete]

I think that is the point. It’s safe to use if you follow the manufacturer’s guidance. They don’t say ‘don’t use on several coats of paint if the item underneath is plastic’. I’ve been using it (or similar) trade products on all my cars for nigh on 35 years after learning about their use whilst working with a professional.

Yes, they are stronger and they make light work of the job in hand. It’s a bit like classic T-Cut vs graded compound - you can rub all day with T-cut and achieve very little whereas with the proper compound, if you know what you are doing you can achieve the result you are after in seconds.

Minimal rubbing of the surface to remove tar spots, even if they have been on for years and really hardened is what you are after. That is easily achievable with Tardis and a microfibre. It simply melts away the tar with a couple of passes. Rinse thoroughly afterwards and follow the instructions to avoid bare plastics, uncured paint etc and there is no issue whatsoever. It’s not like your splashing it around all over the place like cheap 1970s cologne!

It is used widely by professional detailers, here is a video of one using it on painted plastic sills and trim. It really isn’t a big deal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4u5C49Bv8XM

And let’s not forget this thread started with someone asking about a solution to his tar spot problem. I’ve tried over the counter consumer tar removers and frankly they vary from ‘just about work with excessive elbow grease’ to nigh on useless. Follow the instructions, avoid bare plastic and Tardis is the solution to that problem.

 

[RPSN]

Such products used on the clear coat lacquer, on top of multiple coats of paint and primer is totally safe and will get nowhere near the underlying plastics. Provide the paint is cured and not smart repaired I see no risk at all. I’d happily use any such product or petrol, cleaned off afterwards and rewaxed, over any kind of polish, which by nature is an abrasive.

I think that is the point. It’s safe to use if you follow the manufacturer’s guidance. They don’t say ‘don’t use on several coats of paint if the item underneath is plastic’. I’ve been using it (or similar) trade products on all my cars for nigh on 35 years after learning about their use whilst working with a professional.

Yes, they are stronger and they make light work of the job in hand. It’s a bit like classic T-Cut vs graded compound - you can rub all day with T-cut and achieve very little whereas with the proper compound, if you know what you are doing you can achieve the result you are after in seconds.

Minimal rubbing of the surface to remove tar spots, even if they have been on for years and really hardened is what you are after. That is easily achievable with Tardis and a microfibre. It simply melts away the tar with a couple of passes. Rinse thoroughly afterwards and follow the instructions to avoid bare plastics, uncured paint etc and there is no issue whatsoever. It’s not like your splashing it around all over the place like cheap 1970s cologne!

It is used widely by professional detailers, here is a video of one using it on painted plastic sills and trim. It really isn’t a big deal.

And let’s not forget this thread started with someone asking about a solution to his tar spot problem. I’ve tried over the counter consumer tar removers and frankly they vary from ‘just about work with excessive elbow grease’ to nigh on useless. Follow the instructions, avoid bare plastic and Tardis is the solution to that problem.

To reiterate what I said earlier, plus a bit extra.....

There are products for removing tar which are safe to use on paint and plastics etc, so why on earth use one where the manufacturer says....

“Question: Can I use Tardis on all surfaces?”

“Answer: No, some paints and plastics may be damaged by solvent cleaners. If in doubt test before use on a small inconspicuous area. Do not use on aerosol paint finishes, uncured paint or vehicle interiors.”

As long as it works for you that’s fine. However, the ‘Tardis, powerful trade strength solvent based cleaner’ won’t be coming anywhere near the sills etc on my car.

Note: My qualified trade in Vehicle Body Repair has served me well over many years and continues to do so

That’s it from me on the subject of tar removal from the F-Type sills! Feel free to continue if you so wish.