Wrapping the sills

[Trevor Rabbit]

Hi everyone - I have a Polaris white 2016 S and am fed up with trying to get the tar off the sills beneath each door - especially bad as the many pot holes are temporarily fixed (or not fixed) with loosely packed road tar. I've tried kerosene, turps, tar and bug remover and paint thinners; all work to some extent but none removes all the tar.

I'm therefore thinking about putting gloss black wrap beneath each door, witch of course won't strip the tar but I might stop worrying about it!

I'm a bit concerned about cosmetics, however, and would be grateful for any views.

 

[Philb280]

Personally no, I'd stick with the cleaning products

 

[RPSN]

Hi, welcome to the forum.

As you’re concerned about cosmetics, in my opinion putting black wrap on the sills of your Polaris white car wouldn't do it any favours. You could use PPF (clear polyurethane) but you’ll still see tar spots etc.

Turps is ok to remove tar but definitely not paint thinners as it’s a strong solvent and can damage the paintwork!

An excellent product I use is T-Cut Metallic which is less abrasive than T-Cut Original....it will remove tar spots etc with no problems https://www.halfords.com/motoring/car-cleaning/all-car-cleaning/t-cut-metallic-colour-restorer-500ml-399709.html

Taken from the link....

T-Cut Metallic Colour Restorer 500ml

T-Cut Metallic Colour Restorer is based on the original T-Cut but has a special formula! The formulation is less abrasive than T-Cut Original which is ideal for new paintwork and a round touch-up.

It's designed for use on metallic and pearlescent car paintwork to restore the original colour and lustre in minutes. It quickly and easily removes oxidisation, ingrained road grime, tar spots and scratches from car paint.

Features & Benefits:

• Quick and easy to apply
• Brings back the original colour and lustre in minutes
• Removes oxidisation, ingrained road grime, tar spots and scratches from car paint
• 500ml
• T-Cut Metallic contains no silicones and leaves no harmful residue

 

[Anonymous]

I use Gyeon’s Q2M TAR which has worked brilliantly for me, just spray it on and you can see it working immediately. It also works well against fly splatter etc.

Clear PPF as mentioned above may work well too as it might be easier to clean than the paintwork. I have had both sills and the front end PPF’d on mine and it has made it much easier to keep clean

 

[cj10jeeper]

On the aesthetic aspect it would be a big ‘no’ from me. I think it would ruin the lines.

An alternative to just cleaning or wrapping would be to retrofit side skirts. They would reduce to amount of debris thrown up to the visible parts of the sills, reduce cleaning and enhance the look

 

[scm]

An alternative to just cleaning or wrapping would be to retrofit side skirts. They would reduce to amount of debris thrown up to the visible parts of the sills, reduce cleaning and enhance the look

Not sure that would actually work - you'd be surprised at how much crud ends up on top of the side skirts. :-(

 

[cj10jeeper]

An alternative to just cleaning or wrapping would be to retrofit side skirts. They would reduce to amount of debris thrown up to the visible parts of the sills, reduce cleaning and enhance the look

Not sure that would actually work - you'd be surprised at how much crud ends up on top of the side skirts. :-(

It works - I purchased mine without side skirts and retrofitted the 400 versions several years ago. Of course you can still get crud on top, but it's not the blobs or tar (or stone chips) and way less than the large roosters of filth up the sills and sides of the doors.

 

[scm]

An alternative to just cleaning or wrapping would be to retrofit side skirts. They would reduce to amount of debris thrown up to the visible parts of the sills, reduce cleaning and enhance the look

Not sure that would actually work - you'd be surprised at how much crud ends up on top of the side skirts. :-(

It works - I purchased mine without side skirts and retrofitted the 400 versions several years ago. Of course you can still get crud on top, but it's not the blobs or tar (or stone chips) and way less than the large roosters of filth up the sills and sides of the doors.

Ah, I've never experienced the "no sills" crud so welcome your input. I shall consider myself lucky when cleaning the sills! :lol:

 

[RPSN]

My car doesn’t have the side skirts (I don’t want them either) and I have no real issues with road grime etc on the sills and bottom of the door panels.

As mentioned earlier in this thread, a fair bit of crud ends up on top of the side skirts. I remember someone saying that they’re good for those interested in gardening :lol:

 

[Trevor Rabbit]

Many thanks, everyone. I thought there would be some comments about the esthetics! I agree,:spoils the lines and makes the car look higher off the ground.

To my surprise, this product, which has a mild acidic base, seems to work well. I'll look for the T-cut too.

The real answer is to teach Australian road workers how to repair roads!

Thanks again ...

 

[MANTOT3]

Hi Trevor
You don't mention using a clay bar.
If you have to go to an abrasive try this first.
I found claying a revelation gets the paintwork on the lower half of the car silky smooth.
Lots on you tube about how to, I particularly like this guy Jon

https://youtu.be/wQyPlsUPhXU

Knows his stuff.


Maguires do a kit with lubricant, good for beginners as the clay bar is white so you can see the muck easily.
But all detailing companies have a product.

 

[MANTOT3]

Na,
This is the one you want if you're a beginner

https://youtu.be/9B9Cn-GeJqw

Sorry took a while to find!

 

[Pilot Pete]

Get yourself some Autosmart Tardis. I also bought some of those ridiculously cheap, crap quality microfibre towels and use one every now and again with a bit of Tardis on it to simply wipe away the tar spots. They literally dissolve with a few rubs. I then wash off the Tardis immediately with soapy suds before washing the rest of the car fully. I bin the microfibre.

It will strip any wax/ LSP so after using it and thoroughly cleaning the car I apply fresh wax to the sills.

Trust me, it really is that good. https://autosmart.co.uk/shop/tardis-1l

 

[RPSN]

Get yourself some Autosmart Tardis. I also bought some of those ridiculously cheap, crap quality microfibre towels and use one every now and again with a bit of Tardis on it to simply wipe away the tar spots. They literally dissolve with a few rubs. I then wash off the Tardis immediately with soapy suds before washing the rest of the car fully. I bin the microfibre.

It will strip any wax/ LSP so after using it and thoroughly cleaning the car I apply fresh wax to the sills.

Trust me, it really is that good. https://autosmart.co.uk/shop/tardis-1l

That is a very poor recommendation indeed. Autosmart Tardis is a trade strength solvent based cleaner which can damage the paintwork (I mentioned the effects of strong solvents in my earlier post).

Taken from the link https://autosmart.co.uk/shop/tardis-1l .....

Question: Can I use Tardis on all surfaces?

Answer: No, some paints and plastics may be damaged by solvent cleaners. If in doubt test before use on a small inconspicuous area. Do not use on aerosol paint finishes, uncured paint or vehicle interiors.

 

[Philskill]

Another option gTechniq W7 Tar and Glue Remover!

Thats what I use.

 

[RPSN]

Another option gTechniq W7 Tar and Glue Remover!

Thats what I use.

That’s another strong solvent based product that I wouldn’t put anywhere near my F-Type’s paintwork!

Here’s some info to bear in mind, taken from the Gtechniq website.....https://www.gtechniq.co.uk/shop/auto/wash-decon/w7-tar-and-glue-remover/#application

“IMPORTANT: Do not allow W7 to come into contact with plastics, rubber or vinyl – wipe any overspray immediately. It is not suitable for use on PPF, smart repairs or wrapped vehicles.”

 

[ralphr1780]

I use regularly the simple basic enamel paint diluent: White Spirit. It works wonders and does not harm paint or plastic / rubber parts.
And if you have a drugstore nearby, get some Dipentine solvent, this is great for removing tar and other sticking stuff, harmless to the paint with pine smell.

 

[RPSN]

I use regularly the simple basic enamel paint diluent: White Spirit. It works wonders and does not harm paint or plastic / rubber parts.
And if you have a drugstore nearby, get some Dipentine solvent, this is great for removing tar and other sticking stuff, harmless to the paint with pine smell.

As is quite often found, the old fashioned remedies still do the business.....white spirit and turpentine/terpene based products are A-OK for removing tar etc with no harm done to paintwork and most plastics or rubber.

 

[Tel]

Expensive products and solvents...NOOOOO!
After washing with water and Fairy or Maid in the USA, use a soft MF cloth soaked in petrol. It is all you need to remove the sticky bitchumen.


FWIW - Our V8R came with colour coded sills. Our V8S prior has matté black sills. The colour coded type make the car look bloated around the midriff IMO.

First thing was to wrap them in Piano Black along with the front aero splitters, result, 'slimmer' looking car. The black was then overwrapped with xpel healable film which, has been astonishing in the 7 years of driving.

When we met with Ian Callum, he agreed that the black compliments his design compared to the colour coded type. That'll do it for me.
He mentioned that he was rather miffed the he had no control over colour the designers added to his body design.

Do it, worst thing is you don't like it and you pull the film off, but I'm confident once you do, you'll wish you'd done it earlier...No visible brake dust and appear cleaner for ages, especially on a White car.

 

[mickjaguar]

I wouldn't use petrol on white paint. Needs thorough washing off in case it stains. Had to help my neighbour with that recently, when his car became covered in yellow blotches.