Very loud droning at the front

Garymg

New member
Hello people.

Just got back from a local garage who couldn't find an issue with a droning and humming which starts at about 40mph and progressively gets obtrusively loud at (let's call it 70mph). Ftype s with 40K. Tyres are all good I'm told. Came on all of a sudden last week. Slide into N at any speed and the noise is the same and completely speed-dependent, the higher the speed = much more noise. It seems low mileage for wheel bearings. I hear the dif issue is a whine so fingers crossed that's not it. Any known issues before I try another garage? Much appreciated.
 
Wonder if it’s a loose bit of trim…
Forces due to wind and turbulence def go massively with speed

I’d get it up on a ramp at a friendly garage and check all the under trays etc
If you have a leaf blower you could point it underneath on full blast

Although you’d think where you sent in would have checked that first

Sounds like sound level is car speed not engine speed related - guess could drive shaft/diff etc

Could put into neutral a see if changes at all
 
Possibly loose undertray, as mentioned?

If bearing/drive shaft/etc., I suspect you may have noticed a gradual “build-up” in the noise?
 
Kev said:
What brand of tyres are fitted? Is the noise the same on different road surfaces?

Avons. Same tyres as before the drone. few months old. All surfaces are the same.
 
I had one noisy front wheel bearing at 50,000 miles. Was a sort of rubbing noise. Was worse on bends or steep camber.
 
You don’t say if it’s 2/4WD, engine. All helps diagnose and eliminates various things

Prop shaft is a good one to check out as and very easy. They really do drone and are speed related.
Wheel bearings mentioned and can deteriorate very quickly. You tend not to notice then suddenly you can’t fail to hear it as you tune in.
Check if it’s load related on faster long corners
 
cj10jeeper said:
You don’t say if it’s 2/4WD, engine. All helps diagnose and eliminates various things

Prop shaft is a good one to check out as and very easy. They really do drone and are speed related.
Wheel bearings mentioned and can deteriorate very quickly. You tend not to notice then suddenly you can’t fail to hear it as you tune in.
Check if it’s load related on faster long corners

Thanks. Its RWD.
 
Garymg said:
cj10jeeper said:
You don’t say if it’s 2/4WD, engine. All helps diagnose and eliminates various things

Prop shaft is a good one to check out as and very easy. They really do drone and are speed related.
Wheel bearings mentioned and can deteriorate very quickly. You tend not to notice then suddenly you can’t fail to hear it as you tune in.
Check if it’s load related on faster long corners

Thanks. Its RWD.

Great - that just eliminates anything to do with front driveshafts, etc.
 
UPDATE: After two local garages and a tyre fitter said there was no issue with the wheel bearing and one said it was the rear diff, jag specialist said defo front bearing. Replaced. Drone deceased! You can't beat experience.
 
Garymg said:
UPDATE: After two local garages and a tyre fitter said there was no issue with the wheel bearing and one said it was the rear diff, jag specialist said defo front bearing. Replaced. Drone deceased! You can't beat experience.

Glad you had it sorted and thanks for updating the thread. How much did it cost you and did you replace the bearing from one wheel only?
 
WShudds said:
Garymg said:
UPDATE: After two local garages and a tyre fitter said there was no issue with the wheel bearing and one said it was the rear diff, jag specialist said defo front bearing. Replaced. Drone deceased! You can't beat experience.

Glad you had it sorted and thanks for updating the thread. How much did it cost you and did you replace the bearing from one wheel only?

The front bearing requires a complete hub. The total cost for the hub (genuine part) was £380 plus labour £60. A one-hour job. Interesting that the local garages took a stethoscope to both front wheels and said the bearings were fine. Apparently, no noise or movement on a ramp doesn't mean the bearing isn't knackered and can be a red herring. I considered doing both as a precaution but was told that was pointless as the other bearing could last 100K. They can wear independently.
 
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