manual gearbox vs 8 speed

S

stickshift steve

New member
Hi . First post so i thought i wold throw some controversy in .
I have wanted an f type since they came out but due to my passion for bikes taking up most of my money for the last few years i have not bought one yet.
I have hired f types from Avis though and abused there no mileage policy to the tune of 750 miles in 2 days around the north coast 500 and beyond.
The one thing i have never got on with though is the 8 speed gearbox as i just think the car only needs a 6 speed box. I found that using the paddles was a waste of time as the rev limiter just gets constantly hit when giving it the beans.
I know you can just put it in auto and let the car do its thing but i like to be more involved with the car.
I have tested a couple with the manual box and love it. The longer gear ratios mean that i can get a full longer roar through the rev range rather than it taking a couple of seconds before bouncing off the rev limiter with the auto.
So am i alone in my thinking or are there others out there that came to the same conclusion and bought a manual?
 
I’ve driven both and have ordered a new auto.

They’re faster, more efficient and the rev-matching on the paddles adds to the great sound track. Yes, it gets towards the red line quickly so you need to upshift with the paddles more often but that just adds to the experience for me.

Also, have a search for clutch issues on the US forum.....
 
What GusA said.
And if you really must shift a gear stick, you can use the stick in S instead of the paddles. ;)
 
I agree with you TBH.

However, I’ve come to the F-Type at a time when, due to illness, I struggle with a manual ‘box. I love the extra involvement changing gear manually gives but for now it’s autos all the way for me! The ZF 8-speed is brilliant to be fair, so if I can’t manage a manual, at least I can thoroughly enjoy the experience of the car taking control of that pesky gear changing thing!

I have to admit that it’s pretty nice to be able to just cruise along at times but when moved across to S and Dynamic engaged, the car is pretty darned involving and I love the way the auto is configured in the F-Type. I have driven lots of cars with the same gearbox but this is the best for involving the driver as much as possible.

So, I don’t blame you for wanting a manual. They’re pretty rare though! I suspect that in time (lots of it) they’ll be seen as the pick of the bunch and turn into a real collectors piece.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well if it's good enough for the GT4 boys, I reckon the 6 speed sequential would be the kiddie! Sorry, but I couldn't help myself, but copy the whole spec as it may be of interest to some.
The 8 speed ZF is quicker than I could ever be with a manual. I'm at the age where I'm too lazy to be pressing the blooming clutch up and down all the time in traffic - that's where the ZF is a godsend.
The 6 speed manual are thwart with reliability issues (Clutches & flywheeels).

TECHNICAL DATA
Weight - 1,450kg
Lenght - 4482mm
Width Track - 1597mm (Front - Production)1649mm (Rear - Production)
Height - 1314mm
Wheel Base - 2622mm
Fuel Tank - 120L ATL FT3 bag Tank
Power System - JLR AJ133 V8 Supercharged 450-500bhp dependant on BOP
A/S - Freeflow Air Intake Filters to Std Throttle Body & Manifold
Exhaust - Modified standard system with Fia homologated catalyst, SVR quad tailpipe exit
Fuel System - FIA FT3-1999 Approved (Composite Body Enclosure).
Gearbox - XTRAC Gearbox: 6 Speed Sequential
Gear Linkage - Paddle-shift System (Pneumatic actuation from Steering Wheel)
Actuation - Shiftec Pnematic Paddleshift
Tyre Size - Pirelli 305x660x18"
Wheel Size - 11J x18" Rimstock Aluminum Alloy
Dampers - Bilstein 2-Way Adjustable Dampers with Eibach Springs
Suspension components - Revised geometry for track use
Brakes - Alcon 6 piston Front 380Diax35.6mm Disc Alcon 4 Piston rear 343Diax32mm Disc
Body Varlent - Jaguar FType SVR 18MY
Splitter - Carbon fibre splitter
Glazing - Polycarbonate
Hood - Carbon fibre hood
Tailgate - Composite tailgate
Doors - Aluminium Outer with Carbon Inner
HVAC - Sabelt 8862-2009 Compliant
External E Stop - Cosworth DDU with Bespoke Overlay
Switch Packs - Jaguar Membrane Panel
ECU - Bosch Motorsport MS6.4
External E Stop - External E Sto & Fire Extinguisher Actuation
Fire Extinguisher Switch - Shielded Push Button
Ignition Switch - 3 Position Switch
Body Controls - Cosworth Ips33
Wiring Harness - Bespoke motorsport Wiring Harness
Safety Systems - GT4 compliant
Restraints - FIA 8853/98 Compliant 6 point harnesses
Driver safety - Safe craft window nets
Roll Over Protection - Bespoke Roll Cage to Msa/Fia regulations
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I have spent the last half hour reading about the manual clutch problems but as i will be going for 2017 car it should have the uprated clutch fitted from new.
Another couple of things that i prefer the manual box for is i like to give the engine a little blip when going down the box to accelerate .I also had a couple of people egging me on to give the hire car a rev when stood still . Now on a manual car you just dip the clutch whereas on the auto you have to select neutral first or risk embedding your car in the rear of the one in front.
I had a bit of a worrying moment when doing my tour of Scotland where i had to do a 3 point turn on a country road due to me not believing the sat nav actually knows Scotland better than me.
I was trying to engage reverse then first whilst blocking the road and there was a rather large hgv bearing down on my position . I know in a manual i would have been spun around much quicker.
These are just my observations and it looks like everyone that has the auto loves it . If i had to use my car to commute through a busy town centre the auto might make more sense but i work shifts and do not hit any standing traffic .
 
stickshift steve said:
... on a manual car you just dip the clutch whereas on the auto you have to select neutral first or risk embedding your car in the rear of the one in front.
Click to expand...

So, either a long leg movement or a little finger tap on the P button? Guess which is easier ... ;)

I had a bit of a worrying moment when doing my tour of Scotland where i had to do a 3 point turn on a country road due to me not believing the sat nav actually knows Scotland better than me. I was trying to engage reverse then first whilst blocking the road and there was a rather large hgv bearing down on my position . I know in a manual i would have been spun around much quicker.
Click to expand...

Switching from D to R is really quick with the auto, just hold the trigger and push the lever forwards or backwards. Bit more of a faff negotiating the H gate. I guess your problem was just not being as used to the auto as you are to a manual shift.

But hey, it's your choice so choose whichever best fits your requirements. I think you'll find it much harder to source a manual, though, I doubt many were made.
 
Right , i suppose with it just being a hire car i was just sent away in it to figure it out myself . i didn't know you could just press the p button and rev it.
There is a manual 6 speed at my local dealer at the moment but it is a 2016 model which i do not want due to the road tax being £500 per year.
i am after an April 2017 onward car as after the car reaches 5 years old the road tax drops to £140 .
 
stickshift steve said:
Right , i suppose with it just being a hire car i was just sent away in it to figure it out myself . i didn't know you could just press the p button and rev it.
There is a manual 6 speed at my local dealer at the moment but it is a 2016 model which i do not want due to the road tax being £500 per year.
i am after an April 2017 onward car as after the car reaches 5 years old the road tax drops to £140 .
Click to expand...

I believe that revving in P will restrict the max revs to protect the engine so you can't redline it that way. ;)

And your thinking on car tax exactly matches my own, so we have that in common! Though I thought it was year 7 when the tax drops? If you're right I'm in for an unexpected windfall!

BTW, your car tax amounts are low anyway as it goes up by at least £5 a year, the 2016 models and earlier will be paying well over £500 this year.
 
I have just looked the tax up. It is 1st year priced due to emmisions which is a horrendous cost. Then for the next 5 years you pay £145 plus £310 as the cars cost over £40000 when new .It is 6 years before it drops to £145 (at the moment.) So you are right .. it gets cheaper at the start of the 7th time of taxing it.
 
I was hoping you were right! ;)

Those high taxes are a great incentive to get us out of our cars aren't they? If I've got the choice of leaving a highly taxed car at home and taking a smelly crowded bus or making the most of the tax I've paid .... :D
 
For me auto suits the car perfectly
I daily mine so it’s nice to be able to sit back and let it do it’s thing, but then in S and dynamic is involving and quicker than I could change manually

As for hitting the redline often, I look at that as more times to hear the upshift sounds from the exhaust!
 
I was actually thinking about this the other day, has anyone heard of anyone doing a conversion of a V8 to a manual? Did a quick google and couldn't see anything. Wondering if it's possible without ridiculous amounts of ££££.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top