Losing Coolant but not overheating

C

Clincher610

New member
Hi to all,
I just purchased myself an F-Type V6S 2014, in black, collected it 2 days ago.
Drove it home from the dealer with no issues, other than a faint burnt oil smell (which i put down to them spilling a drop of oil during the service).
Having driven the 30 miles to get home, i left the car for 3 hours then went for a little drive, after less than a mile i got a low coolant warning, drove straight home. Let the car cool and checked the coolant level, it was showing below minimum. Topped up with some G12+.

Gave the dealer a call to explain my concern that it has lost coolant and they agreed for me to take the car back to them today for them to have a look over it. On the drive to the dealer this morning i again got the low coolant warning after maybe 25 miles.

At no point did the water temperature go above normal during any of this. No signs of leak under the bonnet.

Could the 3-Click closure method of the filler cap cause this?

I don't expect anyone to be able to give me an exact diagnosis from this description, just interested if anyone has experienced similar symptoms etc.
 
The only symptom I ever had was the level always settling at just below the top of the full bar - never found out why and it was always stable there.

I experienced all of the below in my ownership...

Some of the caps / bottle necks were poorly moulded and a bit oval, which leads to loss of pressure and accompanied leaking - there is a JLR Bulletin about it.

As for a leaky Y pipe under the supercharger that is more likely to go altogether in a ball of under-bonnet steam - ditto for one of the electric coolant pumps.

Other possibilities could be one of the 3 pack radiators, which get silted up and rusty over time.

If it just below minimum then it might just have burped - you don’t say if the car had a recent service / coolant change.

I guess the level they found after it had cooled would give the best indicator as to what is happening.

A pressure test is certainly worth doing.
 
The coolant leak could be caused by the thermostat?...

https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=9061
 
Hi,
I had this exact issue with my F Type last month, took it back to Jaguar and turned out to be thermostat housing leaking.
All sorted under warranty.

Paul
 
Thanks for the responses everyone.

When I dropped it back at the dealer he said first thing they’d check is thermostat.
 
👍 As you couldn't see any signs of a coolant leak under the bonnet there's a good chance that the thermostat is the culprit!
 
Clincher610 said:
At no point did the water temperature go above normal during any of this.
Click to expand...

Good luck on the garage fix, but don't rely on the dash to know if the temperature is getting hot as it dampens the actual reading.

Torque pro or things like that are better for getting actual oil temp
 
Mine leaks slowly at the (already once replaced) heater pipe at the back of the engine, but not the amount you are are witnessing. I also rarely have coolant smell. I can see the dried coolant on top of the heater pipe in the rear, you could check this out. Never had a low coolant warning.

In any case, I expect the dealer has to fix this problem on your car?
 
WhoKnows said:
Clincher610 said:
At no point did the water temperature go above normal during any of this.
Click to expand...

Good luck on the garage fix, but don't rely on the dash to know if the temperature is getting hot as it dampens the actual reading.
Click to expand...

Neither did the coolant temperature on the instrument panel go above normal when my car had the sudden coolant loss which was caused by the thermostat leaking.

From what I understand, the temp reading will sit mid-gauge for a while even if the engine is overheating. By the time it climbs to the top it maybe too late and critical damage is caused!

This is what TOPIx says about the engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensors...

The ECT sensors are NTC (negative temperature coefficient) thermistors that allow the ECM (engine control module) to monitor the engine coolant temperature.

There are two identical sensors installed which are identified as ECT 1 and 2. Each sensor is secured with a twist-lock and latch mechanism and is sealed with an O-ring. A two pin electrical connector provides the interface between the sensor and the engine harness.

ECT 1 is installed in the heater manifold, at the rear of the bank 1 cylinder head. The input from this sensor is used in calibration tables and by other systems.

If there is an ECT 1 fault, the ECM adopts an estimated coolant temperature. On the second consecutive trip with an ECT 1 fault the ECM illuminates the MIL (malfunction indicator lamp).

ECT 2 is installed in the lower hose connector which attaches to the bottom of the thermostat. The input from this sensor is used for OBD 2 diagnostics and, in conjunction with the input from ECT 1, to confirm that the thermostat is functional.

If there is an ECT 2 fault the ECM illuminates the MIL on the second consecutive trip.
 
Update:
Took the car to West Riding Independent.
They immediately diagnosed a knackered water pump that was spraying water.
£595+ VAT, that includes a full inspection of whole vehicle.
They’ve given it a full clean bill of health, no other issues.
They’ve been brilliant. Unlike the dealer I purchased from!!
 
Clincher610 said:
Update:
Took the car to West Riding Independent.
They immediately diagnosed a knackered water pump that was spraying water.
£595+ VAT, that includes a full inspection of whole vehicle.
They’ve given it a full clean bill of health, no other issues.
They’ve been brilliant. Unlike the dealer I purchased from!!
Click to expand...
Thanks for the update.
Good to hear it's all sorted.
 
Clincher610 said:
Update:
Took the car to West Riding Independent.
They immediately diagnosed a knackered water pump that was spraying water.
£595+ VAT, that includes a full inspection of whole vehicle.
They’ve given it a full clean bill of health, no other issues.
They’ve been brilliant. Unlike the dealer I purchased from!!
Click to expand...
Good to hear it’s sorted, did the dealer you purchased the car from cover this cost for you?
 
I should have gone back and re-read your original post before my previous reply.

As you only purchased the car from a dealer just over a month ago you shouldn't have to fork out for a knackered water pump! However, as the work has been done elsewhere (West Riding Independent) I'm not sure where you stand?

When purchasing a car in the UK, the Consumer Rights Act 2015 gives you rights to a car that is of satisfactory quality, fit for purpose, and as described.
You have an initial 30-day right to reject a faulty vehicle for a full refund. After 30 days, but within six months, you have the right to a repair or replacement. After six months, you can still seek a refund or price reduction, but you bear the burden of proving the fault existed at the time of sale.

I hope you get a reimbursement for costs from the dealership.
 
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