Just reserved a 2016 F-Type…

[ogscu]

I’m 27, and this is my first ‘luxury’ (?) car, having driven a Ford Fiesta for many years now.

I’d just like to know if there’s anything specific I should look out for when going to inspect/collect the car next weekend?

The reg is: PX66 USJ

It has 27k miles, 1 previous owner, and a FSH at the same dealer.

 

[Billymcmred]

Good choice welcome to the group
search forum many threads about issues and what to look out for
If you can get vin number you can check service history on Jaguar web site it’s worth checking to see how “full” the service history is

 

[scm]

The main thing to realise is you can't use full throttle for more than a couple of seconds, unlike most cars!

Welcome to the club!

 

[mickjaguar]

The service history does not mention replacement of the spark plugs which was due at 6 years (this was changed to 5 year intervals on 2018). It's a low mileage car so may have been ignored.

The new MOT lists a cut in one of the tyres, which is only an advisory, but worth checking into. Also eems like a car that has been stood around a bit and possibly kept outside, as there's some rust on suspension coils and brake discs mentioned across the MOTs over time. Check the exhaust valves operate properly and haven't seized as this won't be covered by Jaguar extended warranty.

 

[YorkshireSam]

My top tip would be to check everything on the service schedule has been done at each service, not just an oil and filter change.

For example, on a 66-plate car the diff fluid should have been changed (4 year service I think) - rear diffs are sometimes a weak point, so it's important.

If it's AWD, the transfer box fluid should have been done by now too I think. Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong.

If you put the VIN (located in the lower windscreen) into the Jaguar website you'll be able to see which service items it should have had at each service.

There are plenty of really well maintained F-Types, so I personally wouldn't touch anything where service items have been skipped or can't be proven.

They're solid, reliable cars overall, absolutely loads of fun and generally attract owners who look after them, so the vast majority haven't been thrashed like some performance models. You will find a good one.

If you need any specific info, chances are someone on here will have the answer. Good luck

 

[mickjaguar]

For example, on a 66-plate car the diff fluid should have been changed (4 year service I think) - rear diffs are sometimes a weak point, so it's important.

This appears to be a V6 340 which has a fixed differential. I think, the fluid is not scheduled for change on the fixed diff until 10 years, They don't seem to have the fragility of the lsd ones.

From the MOT history, itooks like a car that has been standing around and kept outside maybe e.g. surface rust on brake disks and springs etc. Check the exhaust valves are not siezed and this is not covered by the Jaguar approved used warranty.

Service history is as follows:



The MOT history can be viewed here:

https://www.gov.uk/check-mot-history

 

[MajorTom]

it looks like a car that has been standing around and kept outside

This arguably increases the risk of the infamous issue with stuck injectors, should one ever need to be replaced. If it's an RWD (which I presume it is) the risk increases further, and even more so if it has the non-black open bonnet vents. Hard to check of course but I'd take a look under the bonnet and under the engine cover to see if there's lots of corrosion.

I know it's hard to avoid in the UK where so many sadly have to leave their cars outside all the time but I'd be a bit put off by an F-Type that has been kept outside.

 

[mickjaguar]

Looks like it could be a nice example, one owner from new, right colour with good options, always serviced on time, coming from the original supplying dealer and presumably with 1 year of Jaguar full approved warranty which covers most mechanical and electrical stuff.

Particularly, check the cosmetic things are good as these are outside of the warranty, such as exhaust valve operation (on the 2015 the exhaust will open/close using the button or when switching between normal and dynamic mode, at idle). Check window trims and surrounds are secure and not lifting. Interior trim and fittings etc. No water/rusty marks in the boot floor, indicating a leak around the tailgate, (remove the panels and bucket so you can see the battery). It should all be very clean and like new under there. Check the tyre repair gunge canister date, which should have been renewed (it's not particularly expensive to replace).

 

[scm]

If it's AWD, the transfer box fluid should have been done by now too I think. Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong.

Every 3 years according to my service schedule.

 

[mickjaguar]

If it's AWD, the transfer box fluid should have been done by now too I think. Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong.

Every 3 years according to my service schedule.

To help any confusion for the purchaser. This car is s a 2015 V6 340 which was only available in RWD with a fixed rear differential. No transfer boxes etc.

 

[ogscu]

If it's AWD, the transfer box fluid should have been done by now too I think. Someone will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong.

Every 3 years according to my service schedule.

To help any confusion for the purchaser. This car is s a 2015 V6 340 which was only available in RWD with a fixed rear differential. No transfer boxes etc.

Sorry if this is me missing something, but isn’t it a 2016 F-Type?

 

[mickjaguar]

Sorry if this is me missing something, but isn’t it a 2016 F-Type?

Yes, you are correct it is a 2016 registered car. In my favourite colour too!

 

[JKFTYPE]

The main thing to realise is you can't use full throttle for more than a couple of seconds, unlike most cars!

Welcome to the club!

Sorry I may be being thick here but what does this mean please? Is this about power and RWD for drivers used to less, or is there actually some technical limitations at play?

It's a sleepy Sunday morning and I have only had one coffee so far, so please excuse what is likely a stupid question!!!!!!

 

[scm]

The main thing to realise is you can't use full throttle for more than a couple of seconds, unlike most cars!

Sorry I may be being thick here but what does this mean please? Is this about power and RWD for drivers used to less, or is there actually some technical limitations at play?

It means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to licence losing speeds. In most cars that happens (relatively) glacially!

 

[MajorTom]

The main thing to realise is you can't use full throttle for more than a couple of seconds, unlike most cars!

Sorry I may be being thick here but what does this mean please? Is this about power and RWD for drivers used to less, or is there actually some technical limitations at play?

It means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to licence losing speeds. In most cars that happens (relatively) glacially!

Regardless of speed limits it also means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to crash into the next hedge speeds and it doesn't matter if you have RWD or AWD.

 

[JKFTYPE]

Sorry I may be being thick here but what does this mean please? Is this about power and RWD for drivers used to less, or is there actually some technical limitations at play?

It means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to licence losing speeds. In most cars that happens (relatively) glacially!

Regardless of speed limits it also means that using full throttle for more than a couple of seconds gets you to crash into the next hedge speeds and it doesn't matter if you have RWD or AWD.

I see! The spoiler popping up is a handy early warning system, a reminder that you're going just a leeeetle bit too fast, that stays up and shames you until you slow it right down.

I guess it depends which type of Fiesta ogscu is coming from and what kind of jump in the power-weight ratio they're getting.
I'd say the V6 level of power is very manageable. It's quite an easy car to drive sedately, if you want to. The standard car doesn't have 'mental' power levels.

The RWD thing - I've had RWD and FWD. People used to always tell me to worry about RWD. My first RWD car was a TVR and I remember how easy it was to lose the tail on that. The F really doesn't feel like that at all. Whether that's electronics keeping me safe I don't know.


Treat it with respect and you should be fine.

 

[scm]

The RWD thing - I've had RWD and FWD. People used to always tell me to worry about RWD. My first RWD car was a TVR and I remember how easy it was to lose the tail on that. The F really doesn't feel like that at all.

Before my F-Type I had a 5.0 XKR and that was very tail happy. On the same route the F-Type is very planted and feels much more secure, although I don't know how much of that is down to the pull from the front as I can't tell when it's being applied - it feels very RWD-ish when powering out of bends.

 

[MajorTom]

With all the nannies on they're fortunately all very secure when it comes to traction. The main difference I noticed between RWD and AWD in my previous Jags was in slippery conditions where the AWD was just much more effortless.

The tyres of course make a big difference too, especially on a RWD car. The original P Zeros gave me a few brown pants moments even in the dry which never happens with the Michelins I have now.

Even when the P Zeros let the back end go the nannies stepped in really well and overall I think these cars are rather fool proof if you keep everything on. Except of course if you attack a sharp B road corner at spoiler up speeds where no nannies will help you around the bend.

 

[Pilot Pete]

I’ve got a 2015 V6S. Much higher mileage, but a good indication of things you may want to check that I’ve come across with mine.

1. Water ingress in the boot area. Definitely remove all the boot floor lining and look (no tools required).

2. Door illuminated tread plates loose (the double sided tape had failed eventually. Easy enough to do yourself but time consuming removing all the old glue residue).

3. As others have said, check the rear box exhaust valves. They fail with regular timing. The previous owner had the box changed for this in 2019, mine failed again in 2023. I’ve had a ModStock conversion done now which are supposedly much better quality (they look it).

4. Underside for corrosion. The various cross braces and the subframes can suffer from significant corrosion. Even on cars that aren’t that old. I had mine addressed early this year - braces all removed and sent away for shot blasting and powder coating, subframes wire brushed and then treated with Dinitrol.

5. Obvious things like tyre wear, not just tread depth but uneven wear. If it’s got Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tyres fitted that’s a bonus. If it hasn’t, you’ll want some.

6. Sticky buttons - especially the start button. It’s the material they are made from and is quite common. You can clean them but it comes back, and with the start button especially, the finish wears away.

7. Bonnet/ wings/ front bumper alignment and panel gaps. Quite often they aren’t right, it’s a fiddly job to correct.

8. Stone chips. The front end and bonnet can get very stone chipped. Also the rear edge of the sill (where it has a PPF applied. I’ve also noticed the rear lower edges of the wheel arches are prone to being ‘blasted’ by road debris thrown up off the tyres.

9. Windscreen. If it’s heated you want to make sure it clears - the elements fail and you can end up with partial clearance only. Also check for chips, mine picked up a few and I eventually sourced a new, genuine Jag screen which I bought for £400 and had fitted locally.

10. Seats, especially the drivers seat. The bolster and the base/ back can get easily damaged by the rivets fitted to jeans. Mine had several drag marks and scratches when I got it, which a mate who does that thing for a living repaired for me. I’ve got a few more only 18 months after the repair.

11. The powered air outlets in the dash. The drive mechanism can fail, but it’s a fairly easy DIY fix. Just make sure it functions fully - it probably will as it will be one of the salesman’s selling points!

That’s it in my experience over and above the usual service and mechanical stuff that you would want to check on any car such as brakes for wear, suspension for leaks/ cracked springs, no warning lights etc.

 

[Pilot Pete]

Broken exhaust valve linkages…and the ModStock replacement.