FUSE 15 ISSUE

JAGBOB

JAGBOB

New member
This has just been reported today by Paul Busby on the VIEZU - PARAMOUNT Tuning International FB page.

Fuse 15 important!

This is an important message for anybody removing fuse 15 on a later model Jaguar. We've just had our 4th car in in the last few weeks with a check engine lamp illuminated, caused by an exhaust gas solenoid valve failure. I know it sounds great to pull fuse 15, but on a car fitted with PPF, when the fuse is removed regeneration of the PPF cannot occur, instead the solenoid valve is stuck in an endless loop of trying to close the valves and perform a regeneration, when this fails to occur eventually the valve burns out and fails. Please guys if you have a later car do not remove fuse 15 to make the exhaust louder and for those thinking it's a great thing to advise other people to do this please consider this is an expensive repair as a direct result of removing moving fuse 15, please consider the advice you are giving without first confirming if the car in question has a PPF or OPF system fitted. - please do share this news and information.
 
Hey Jagbob,

Can you post a link? I can’t seem to find it.

Also interested in what others on here think? I have had the P450 with the fuse pulled for about 9 months now. I expected that at some point the valves may get stuck and it would need a different exhaust and I was ok with that. However this feels like something different and a different repair to replacing the exhaust. Also any ideas on what the solenoid valve replacement costs?

Thanks in advance
 
Seems like a genuine and reasonable post of possible consequences of removal of fuse 15 from specific PPF fitted models.
Such fuse removal is a blunt instrument and very difficult for us to know exactly what various modules pick up from the opening and closing of the exhaust valves. Ensuring closed before a filter clean cycle seems reasonable so does the resulting solenoid cycling.

Not sure the replacement of the solenoid is itself expensive, but if the filter is destroyed or blocked I'd expect costs to rack up. Cleaning it's a few hundred but replacement seems to be in the £1-£3k range inc. labour.

Doesn't affect me with the older set-up, but I'd be putting the fuse back until full clarity emerges and workarounds.
 
Where is the "exhaust gas solenoid valve" located in the system?

If it's the same values in the rear silencer, then with the fuse removed, how is there any power going to it to burn it out?

Defintely need to understand it a little more before considering.
 
scz4 said:
Where is the "exhaust gas solenoid valve" located in the system?

If it's the same values in the rear silencer, then with the fuse removed, how is there any power going to it to burn it out?

Defintely need to understand it a little more before considering.
Click to expand...

I have asked Viezu - Paramount this morning for more info and they replied as below.

The solenoid is under the bonnet, its separate from the exhaust valves, but it needs the valves to close to work, so my understanding is, if the valves will not close, the solenoid cant work, but it keeps trying, from what we have seen this takes some time to go wrong, 18 months from what we are seeing, but we are seeing an increasing number fail, and only in cars with the fuse removed, if caught early, you get a fault code, which will not clear, but as soon as the fuse is reinstalled the fault clears, and the issues is resolved. If left though the solenoid itself can fail.

The early cars were vacuum controlled, and valves can be deactivated, but the later cars 2019 on, the vales are there to do more than just control the noise, and are electronic valves for this reason, they are part of the PPF system, you can still remove the valves and fit a sports exhaust system, but the fuse must be left in place as must the valve motors

Hope that makes sense
 
JAGBOB said:
The early cars were vacuum controlled, and valves can be deactivated, but the later cars 2019 on, the vales are there to do more than just control the noise, and are electronic valves for this reason, they are part of the PPF system, you can still remove the valves and fit a sports exhaust system, but the fuse must be left in place as must the valve motors
Click to expand...

Thanks for the additional information. I wonder then if the solution is to unplug electrical connector from the exhaust value, but leave the fuse in place. Similar to if you were fitting an aftermarket exhaust. Not sure if it would result in an dash error.

Or just put the fuse back in now and again.
 
If you remove the electrical connector the signal confirming the valve closed will be lost, so you’d likely either get a visible or stored fault. The solenoid would continue to cycle so same outcome as fuse 15 out.

Putting the fuse back in seems a sensible interim solution to allow the PPF to run its cycle.
 
Sorry if I am asking dumb questions but how often would we generally need to put it in and for how long to allow the PPF to run the cycle?

I still have 15 months of manufacture warranty so a new exhaust is out of the question (I think) and would be gutted to have to have the fuse in all the time. Being able to take it out was one of the only reasons I bought it!
 
Regeneration cycle is only 10-20 mins. but that’s at ideal speed of 40-70 and from when it starts.
I have more experience of DPF’s and they used to kick off on a long steady motorway run. I’d put it in for a day on a long run, but defer to PPF experienced owners.
 
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