First Year Niggles

[scm]

Must say, although I don't think I have this problem, I think it's great that really clear and useful advice is being shared here. Proper forum!

We Jaaaag owners are a civilised lot! :lol:

 

[cj10jeeper]

Must say, although I don't think I have this problem, I think it's great that really clear and useful advice is being shared here. Proper forum!

We Jaaaag owners are a civilised lot! :lol:

You've clearly not been in the herd headed for the burgers, bacon baps and breakfast rolls when they open the museum doors at the Jaguar breakfast meets.. :lol:

 

[RPSN]

Must say, although I don't think I have this problem, I think it's great that really clear and useful advice is being shared here. Proper forum!

It certainly is!

I'll reply to previous comments later....

 

[RPSN]

I firstly did start removing parts near the C pillar area but found I was getting close to the airbag.
I decided then to remove the rear panel with the escape handle and the plastic side trim so removing the nut was easy.
After I had refitted everything I noticed that the curved exterior trim bit was a bit proud and needed a bit more tightening.
I went the easier way to retighten but it does nothing so I put a bit of 3m tape behind it.
Here are 2 pictures to get to the nut the easier way, the grill is not the first one you see in the boot, but the one beneath the shelf holder.
The nut is a long way in I used a couple of long thin extensions and a box spanner.
You can also see how close the rear airbag and anchor is.

Thanks for your reply.

If you’re ever concerned about working close to the air bag components, all you need to do is disconnect the battery for a minimum of 10 minutes which ensures the system is safe to work on. The following instructions are taken from TOPIx....

“The backup power supply energy must be depleted before any Supplementary Restraint System repairs are carried out. To deplete the backup supply energy, first disconnect the battery ground cable, then disconnect the battery positive cable and wait ten minutes to avoid accidental deployment and personal injury. Failure to follow this instruction may result in personal injury.”

Good to know that trying to retighten the nut on your car didn’t pull the trim back in so that it’s flush with the bodywork. The boot interior side panel ventilation grill that you cut for easier access to the nut is on the offside (RH). You would have difficulty in accessing the nut using the same method on the nearside (LH) as there’s no ventilation grills directly beneath it....they are quite a way either side of it.

From a simple mechanical perspective tightening a locating bolt at the extreme rear of the trim cannot have any effect on the front lower part where it’s lifting. If you press on the trim over the bolt and it doesn’t move inwards then there’s no point in stripping trim and over tightening it as it’s clearly already tight. You risk shearing it or grinding it into bodywork, or even further flexing the raised part outwards as you deform the profile.
The solution, if keeping the existing trim, is clearly to fully remove and bend it slightly (if you’re brave), but easier to bond the offending part down as others have done.
The only reason to access the rear bolt would be to loosen to get better access to bond it.
I stand to be corrected of course but have a life of this sort of fix and mods.

The securing bolt that we are talking about relates to the rear curved section of the trim and is nothing to do with the front lower part of the trim which is lifting as explained here...
https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=80348#p80348
https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=4174

This link https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=6232 includes a photo (attached) of the rear curved section on a window finisher chrome trim that has lifted away from the bodywork. The securing bolt behind it is central to this area (see my pics earlier in this thread) so I would normally think that by tightening the nut it would pull the trim back in. However, this doesn’t seem to be the case with GBH as he’s tried it and it didn’t work.

On my car, if I press on that part of the trim it moves back in flush with the bodywork without much pressure being applied so the securing bolt behind it could be moving too? As I can't see behind the trim, the only sure way I’m going to find out if it will pull back and hold in position with the nut is by trying to tighten it. Before doing so, I could have an assistant to press on the rear curved section of the trim until it’s flush with the bodywork whilst I’m looking at the securing bolt from inside the boot (explained later) to see whether or not it moves? At the moment there’s no need for me to do this as it isn’t that noticeable on my car and the trim only sticks out a little bit further than the same part of the chrome trim on the driver’s side (UK) so I'll probably leave it unless it gets worse.

With regards to slightly bending the trim, I wouldn’t recommend it as it can easily deform or kink. Ask me how I know!

There are at least three reasons for accessing the rear bolt. One is to loosen the nut to get better access beneath the trim for bonding etc, another is to tighten the nut if it is loose, and the third is to remove & replace the trim including having it painted etc.

My qualified trade in Vehicle Body Repair still serves me well after all these years.

Ok, so let’s get onto the method I talked about earlier on accessing the nut that is located behind the rearmost curved section of the trim....

It looks like the job can be done by removing the C-Pillar lower trim panel and pulling the boot interior side panel out a bit (very easy to do). It will help if the torx screw is removed from the luggage anchor point on the side panel as this allows it to be pulled out further for better access to the nut. If need be, the C-Pillar upper trim panel can also be removed as shown in the TOPIx images I provided earlier.

If I had to do this job I would use a ratchet with 3/8" drive extension bar/s and an extra deep 10mm socket (I’ve attached a screenshot of a suitable socket). I’ve also attached some pics from my car which show the interior trim removal and how to access the nut. The first pic shows the trim that has lifted on another member’s car.

Hope this helps anyone who needs to access the trim (window finisher) rearmost nut.