F-Type Convertible window drop when opening the drivers door
- Thread starter philhutton01
- Start date
F type Kev
New member
Hi Thanks for the advice
My F type is a 2013 so has two batteries both are new & fully charged, the problem only occurs when the car has not been used for a few days when being woken from sleep mode otherwise it works normally, I suspect the module is not waking up from sleep mode so want to try replacing it to see if the cures the fault, so just really need to now if it will require programming or not.
My F type is a 2013 so has two batteries both are new & fully charged, the problem only occurs when the car has not been used for a few days when being woken from sleep mode otherwise it works normally, I suspect the module is not waking up from sleep mode so want to try replacing it to see if the cures the fault, so just really need to now if it will require programming or not.
F type Kev
New member
Updated information
I have noticed that when this problem occurs that both door handles pop out & unlock to open the doors, but the window doesn't drop on the drivers side, on the interior drivers lock switch the led is illuminated indicating the drivers door still thinks the car is locked. On the passenger door that works fine the led is off. When I then drive for a while the led will go off & the window drop function returns to working normally, the problem is also getting worse rather than when the car is left for a few days its starting to occur every time its locked.
This is leading me to the micro switches in the door latch rather than the door control module, the door latch is a cheaper part, so that's going to be the first thing for me to try. I have ordered one & will update if it fixes the problem. Searching on line these micro switches appear to be a very common problem on the F type. I also had one of these micro switches fail on my previous Jaguar XF so there's a good chance I am on the right course.
I have noticed that when this problem occurs that both door handles pop out & unlock to open the doors, but the window doesn't drop on the drivers side, on the interior drivers lock switch the led is illuminated indicating the drivers door still thinks the car is locked. On the passenger door that works fine the led is off. When I then drive for a while the led will go off & the window drop function returns to working normally, the problem is also getting worse rather than when the car is left for a few days its starting to occur every time its locked.
This is leading me to the micro switches in the door latch rather than the door control module, the door latch is a cheaper part, so that's going to be the first thing for me to try. I have ordered one & will update if it fixes the problem. Searching on line these micro switches appear to be a very common problem on the F type. I also had one of these micro switches fail on my previous Jaguar XF so there's a good chance I am on the right course.
F type Kev
New member
scm said:
I did post on a previous answer that both batteries are brand new & fully charged so I have ruled that out as a possibility & the fault is only affecting one door, if it was the battery it would cause problems with more than one door function.
F type Kev said:
F type Kev
New member
Update problem solved everything working as it should
I replaced the door latch with a brand new part from eBay for £115 & every thing is now working as it should. Wasn't to difficult to do, remove the door card (there are YouTube videos on how to do this), inner weather shield & the plastic trim around the lock/ door edge, remove the door base speaker to access the bottom front bolt for the window regulator. Loosen the regulator 3 nuts, then take the 2 torx screws out holding the bottom right of the window regulator support to the inside of the door. This allows you to push the right hand regulator support back, which gives just enough room to remove the latch & outer door handle once fixings are removed.
Disconnect 2 electrical connectors from the inside of the outer fold out door handle, the mountings are 3 studs attached to the inside of the door skin with 10mm nuts, you can reach up from inside the opening in the inner door. The nut closest to the front of the door needs a small ring spanner, using a torch & 2 hands you can see & feel the nut, with both hand you can locate the spanner to make sure you're on the nut each time, as you can only turn the nut a quarter of a turn each time. The 2 nuts towards the back of the door which are top & bottom of the handle can be access through the double door skin by peeling back the round black stickers on the inner skin access hole, but you will need a torch & put you second hand up to locate the socket with an extension on the nuts. Before removing the outer handle, mask up the painted part of you door handle to avoid scratching it on the studs as you remove & reinstall the handle, it takes a bit of manoeuvring to get the handle out & in, as the space there is tight made worse by the studs.
You can then disconnect the electrical connection to the door latch, the loom wire is also connected to the latch body & the door skin with push in plugs that need to be pulled out. Undo the 3 torx screws attaching the latch to the outside of the door & drop every thing down. Its easier with 2 people to careful drop both parts together as they are joined by cables & it takes a bit of jiggling to get the assembly down, with the right hand window regulator frame pushed back there is just enough room to get the handle out first then the latch joined together, again it takes a bit of jiggling to get out, would be easier with the window out but it can be done with it in.
I bought a replacement assembly with the cables that need to be attached to the handle, it was easier to remove the H shape black plastic clips from the 2 old cables from the faulty latch to the handle as it didn't matter if they broke (mine did) the chances of these breaking is high due to they're plastic & will be very brittle, but in my case these were no longer required as I had the assembly with new cables. Attach the new cables to the handle making sure you following the same route as the old cables clipping the cables into all the location tabs along the handle so it creates a neat flowing assembly. Replace in reverse of removal, when you lift the assembly in its easy if you can get a second person to support the weight of the latch hanging on the cables from the handle to manoeuvre it back in to its location, once its on the studs it will stay located on its own & you can then attach the latch with the three torx screws.
I hope this helps others to avoid expensive main dealer prices as this is something a home mechanic can do .
I replaced the door latch with a brand new part from eBay for £115 & every thing is now working as it should. Wasn't to difficult to do, remove the door card (there are YouTube videos on how to do this), inner weather shield & the plastic trim around the lock/ door edge, remove the door base speaker to access the bottom front bolt for the window regulator. Loosen the regulator 3 nuts, then take the 2 torx screws out holding the bottom right of the window regulator support to the inside of the door. This allows you to push the right hand regulator support back, which gives just enough room to remove the latch & outer door handle once fixings are removed.
Disconnect 2 electrical connectors from the inside of the outer fold out door handle, the mountings are 3 studs attached to the inside of the door skin with 10mm nuts, you can reach up from inside the opening in the inner door. The nut closest to the front of the door needs a small ring spanner, using a torch & 2 hands you can see & feel the nut, with both hand you can locate the spanner to make sure you're on the nut each time, as you can only turn the nut a quarter of a turn each time. The 2 nuts towards the back of the door which are top & bottom of the handle can be access through the double door skin by peeling back the round black stickers on the inner skin access hole, but you will need a torch & put you second hand up to locate the socket with an extension on the nuts. Before removing the outer handle, mask up the painted part of you door handle to avoid scratching it on the studs as you remove & reinstall the handle, it takes a bit of manoeuvring to get the handle out & in, as the space there is tight made worse by the studs.
You can then disconnect the electrical connection to the door latch, the loom wire is also connected to the latch body & the door skin with push in plugs that need to be pulled out. Undo the 3 torx screws attaching the latch to the outside of the door & drop every thing down. Its easier with 2 people to careful drop both parts together as they are joined by cables & it takes a bit of jiggling to get the assembly down, with the right hand window regulator frame pushed back there is just enough room to get the handle out first then the latch joined together, again it takes a bit of jiggling to get out, would be easier with the window out but it can be done with it in.
I bought a replacement assembly with the cables that need to be attached to the handle, it was easier to remove the H shape black plastic clips from the 2 old cables from the faulty latch to the handle as it didn't matter if they broke (mine did) the chances of these breaking is high due to they're plastic & will be very brittle, but in my case these were no longer required as I had the assembly with new cables. Attach the new cables to the handle making sure you following the same route as the old cables clipping the cables into all the location tabs along the handle so it creates a neat flowing assembly. Replace in reverse of removal, when you lift the assembly in its easy if you can get a second person to support the weight of the latch hanging on the cables from the handle to manoeuvre it back in to its location, once its on the studs it will stay located on its own & you can then attach the latch with the three torx screws.
I hope this helps others to avoid expensive main dealer prices as this is something a home mechanic can do .
Thanks for the great write-up FtK.
Mine is still not working but as it's the passenger door i have been doing manually.
Was quoted over 1k AUD for the repair, but you have inspired me to have a go myself.
Would you be able to provide a link to where you purchased through ebay if you get a minute please.
Cheers John.
Mine is still not working but as it's the passenger door i have been doing manually.
Was quoted over 1k AUD for the repair, but you have inspired me to have a go myself.
Would you be able to provide a link to where you purchased through ebay if you get a minute please.
Cheers John.
F type Kev
New member
MAYDIT2 said:
You will need the passenger side part numbers, As Far as I know there is two Jaguar part numbers for the assembly for the drivers side these are T2R49512 (this is the one I fitted & it worked) which I was led to believe is for vehicles with double locking & T2R49513 which is for vehicles with central locking if you read the info on the internet. Maybe you could ring your local Jaguar dealers & confirm the right part for your car, they wont give part numbers out but will confirm numbers, alternatively email https://britcar.com/ Tell them you want the assembly not just the latch as it makes the job easier & ask them to confirm what part you need. once you have the part number you can search on eBay to see if anyone is selling one
To check if your Jaguar F-Type has double locking, look for the flashing hazard lights and listen for the double lock tone when you lock the vehicle. Double locking is confirmed by the hazard lights flashing twice in quick succession and can be activated by double-pressing the lock button on the key fob or by touching the keyless entry sensor on the door handle twice within three seconds.
Looking online I have found the following part numbers for the passenger side RHD which are T2R49518 I assume with double locking & T2R49519 without double locking try sending a message to this eBay seller who do ship to Australia with you vin & see if they can confirm the part you require https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/276564891302?_skw=T2R49518&epid=2325621118&itmmeta=01K71PA0R0JARGH5P20N0Y2FKK&hash=item40648d56a6:g:gToAAOSwFDNmoOFL&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAAA4FkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1cIrpEQLCh0v7N2ecRP7YVT4wu5GojGS91p9R2bjqoLQkKpyYJJkZUaItuO%2FBg%2BWZcH18f0dVB1EbhJIo%2FcylvyhMAZejcYDK20IFZSLrpzaAgntVz6vHt1IzLKOQQmCr3IPDUK8LWJ1z9OJduSlXLYXHagR56zwmYYpz6stSP8RnDbkOORvlwKEvHHPvZYmALI5izlcs08tjjR5vWh7PBhSpTh5dEYorHFEwKTbTsdms6ADehZrxvLnucubMC44eTEft9lKkgLG7AZbjFJAw0f%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR5CMqLa4Zg
P.S just looked at the photos of your red E type coupe & your red F type Convertible both stunning looking Jaguars, the E type restoration is amazing, I am very jealous of the wonderful weather you have in Australia living here in the UK as we are just entering into winter.