Exhaust valves stuck closed

G

Greggors91

New member
Hello all!

Newbie here! I've seen there have been a few posts about exhaust valves but they don't quite seem relevant to thought I'd start a new thread!

I have a 2014 F-Type S with the active exhaust (whilst it does not have the exhaust button it does have the active exhaust with vacuum operated valves).

I have taken the active exhaust fuse out to try to enable loud mode all the time (hoonigan at heart), but it still really does seem quiet (very little difference between fuse in and out). I'm assuming those with a button notice a audible difference with it 'on' or 'off' at idle (with mine there seems to be no difference at idle at all when I remove or replace the fuse)

The car still has warranty (not with Jaguar) but the garage is 300 miles away and my local Jag dealership seemingly wont give anything away without bringing it into the for inspection where they will end up charging me £150 to look at the problem.

I'm wondering if others have had this and there is an easy way to try and free off the valves without removing the exhaust?

Thanks in advance,
Dave
 
It does sound stuck then - if you take the fuse out you'd definitely notice a change - even if not sure at idle, then when you pull away.

You can get to the actuators with the car on the ground - this is good because you'd need wide ramps to back it on to - and please do not get under it with a jack "just for a few seconds" - I had a 1 tonne Halfords jack buckle on me when I jacked the back end up - go figure on 1/4 of the car's total weight, even with 50/50 front-rear balance!

I'd suggest some penetrating oil and then gentle tap on the actuator rod - alternatively if you can get some wide grips or a soft jaw clamp around it and gently tighten to break the seized status.

If you're lucky then be sure to try and clean the actuator with some fine emery and then a liberal spray of brake dust remover - let it dry off then spray with some anti-seize copper spray.

If you're unlucky and damage the actuator then you might as well go all out on it and can then wire it permanently open anyway! ;)
 
The way I understand it the valves are “open” when there is no vacuum,
i.e. as you start the engine it will be loud then go quiet as soon as vacuum closes the valves
(Unless you have a button and switch to loud) therefore if your valves are seized I’d be very surprised if they are seized “closed” ? That’s perhaps why there’s no change it’s already loud.
I always thought if you had active you had a button anyway?
That’s my 2 penneth worth. Hope it helps or someone more knowledgeable will be along shortly?
 
Agreed. The default position is held open with a spring. As a first check you should be able to reach under the car from the side and operate the lever by hand to see if they move. As the previous poster said I would be surprised if they could fail closed and as they are independent both to get stuck closed is even less likely.

Unfortunately the valves are an integral part of the rear box assembly and a new box from jaguar is about £1500 so definitely worth doing some investigation yourself.

I’m assuming you have v6? Pic of v8 and v6 so you can see location of valves

Might also be worth searching the forum for other threads



Kev
 

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Tel's comments on this one regarding lubricating the springs etc might be helpful.

https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2799
 
Kdes said:
Agreed. The default position is held open with a spring. As a first check you should be able to reach under the car from the side and operate the lever by hand to see if they move. As the previous poster said I would be surprised if they could fail closed and as they are independent both to get stuck closed is even less likely.

Unfortunately the valves are an integral part of the rear box assembly and a new box from jaguar is about £1500 so definitely worth doing some investigation yourself.

I’m assuming you have v6? Pic of v8 and v6 so you can see location of valves

Might also be worth searching the forum for other threads

Kev
Click to expand...

Hey Kev

I think I have this same issue with my 2018 F-type V6. Trying to figure out how to just force the valve open -- loud is just better for me. Can I do that myself -- meaning, using the drawings/pics you attached to your post, where is the valve in that pic and how do I force it open?
 
One other thing - with the button I don’t think there’s a significant difference at idle when on or off. On my car;

Button off - Exhaust opens about 3500 rpm
Button on - Exhaust opens about 1500 rpm
Dynamic mode - Exhaust always open.

Can you notice a difference if you toggle between dynamic on and off?
 
Best way to check valve operation is from cold start. Initial start should be loud, couple of seconds, followed by noticeable decrease in volume as valves close. Few seconds later press ‘loud’ button & should be noticeable deeper/louder tone.

Faulty valves will hear a metallic scraping noise after the initial start up as valves try to close. There will be other, or no, symptoms if they are completed seized.

Happened to me so new back box 👍
 
DaddyDarren said:
Best way to check valve operation is from cold start. Initial start should be loud, couple of seconds, followed by noticeable decrease in volume as valves close. Few seconds later press ‘loud’ button & should be noticeable deeper/louder tone.
Click to expand...

Behaviour, as noted in many previous posts, depends on the MY. In my MY18 the loud start certainly doesn't diminish after "couple of seconds" - it takes around a minute for mine to quieten down from cold. Also, pressing the active exhaust button doesn't give a noticeable deeperr/louder tone - that doesn't happen until about 1500 rpm. Switching to dynamic does produce that effect, though.
 
scm said:
DaddyDarren said:
Best way to check valve operation is from cold start. Initial start should be loud, couple of seconds, followed by noticeable decrease in volume as valves close. Few seconds later press ‘loud’ button & should be noticeable deeper/louder tone.
Click to expand...

Behaviour, as noted in many previous posts, depends on the MY. In my MY18 the loud start certainly doesn't diminish after "couple of seconds" - it takes around a minute for mine to quieten down from cold. Also, pressing the active exhaust button doesn't give a noticeable deeperr/louder tone - that doesn't happen until about 1500 rpm. Switching to dynamic does produce that effect, though.
Click to expand...


Appreciate you putting me right 👍
 
Reading the posts re exhaust actuators seized. Whilst I don’t appear to have an issue(noticeable change when button pushed), I am keen this doesnt become a problem.
What sort of self maintenance can people advise?
Looking at the pdf the actuator damper is attached via a central shaft connected to a rod which is attached to the vacuum canister. I’ve had classics with vacuum dizzys and moving the rod could damage the diaphragm so you do need to be careful trying to unsieze the mechanism. Do you recommend trying to push on the rod or move the damper rod at the opposite end (using mole grips or similar to turn the assembly?)? Both have their risks, bending the rod or marring the pinion. I have some penetrant oil (better than WD) I can use but it’s likely to be ‘burnt’ off with the first use. Unlikely copperkote is going to penetrate the turning surfaces and just coat the outside. Any thoughts or is it a case of penetration oil every drive?
I’ve also investigated alternatives. Based on JLR tending not to accept this as warranty work why fit OEM if it could fail again in a short period? DAE have a couple of alternatives with 25year warranty, does this include the actuators?
 
I think I've read that copper grease spray (Screwfix) has been used by some people as a penetration lubricant. Someone will be along to confirm.

The issue seems a bit random with some exhausts sticking and others not. Had my V6 nearly six years without any problem. Friend at work has a 2014 coupe still OK.
 
Yeah like everything you only hear the problems.
Often been told it’s too small but regularly mention I have a fast a**e
 
My exhaust seems to be fine , but the other week the rear parking sensors failed and also the camera , my friend george has a icarsoft v2 code reader he plugged this into my car but no codes were present for these faults , But he did pick up a code p2169 relating to exhaust pressure vent , george cleared the code but it came back next day , car was booked in to local jaguar dealer , and the found i need 2 rear sensors , they could find no trace of this code p2169 and promptly charged me £176 for an hours diagnostics , warranty will cover the sensors replacement and i am going to take up this diagnostic charge when i am back in early November , my research finds code p2169 could be a loose wire or faulty solenoid , so planning to have a poke about when we get a dry day , location is behind the left wheel arch
 
One of a number of previous articles about lubricating the exhaust spindles.

https://www.ftypeforums.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=4436
 
Just freed mine. Took 2 minutes.

Dealer said they couldn't free it so charged £1850 to fit a new back box....

I've made a little video for you tube.. but I mention the STEALERS name so not sure sure if I can make it public
 
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