Ticking Noise and a Bunch of Codes

C

cj10jeeper

New member
Took a run out in the F Type yesterday and a faint noise I had noticed became louder, although perhaps just I've become tuned into it. A quite distinct ticking seeming to come from low down rear of engine/gearbox. Can hear it best low down in the front wheel arch. Not really audible above the engine. Most evident passing walls when it reverberates and in the 10-30mph speed range. No warning lights and no performance issues.
So I need to track this down.

Meanwhile I thought I'd start with a quick OBD scan and pulled a whole bunch of codes (done with cold engine, not running). A quick search seems to point to one or more faulty oxygen sensors pre cat in the exhaust, but I'll defer to words of wisdom as not one I've encountered before. I sort of expected it to be an injector problem??

P0144 Oxygen sensor - circuit high voltage: Bank 1 - sensor 3
P0142 Oxygen sensor circuit: Bank 1 - sensor 2
P0055 Heated Oxygen Sensor heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3
P0042 Heated Oxygen sensor heater control circuit bank 1 sensor 3
P0162 Oxygen sensor circuit. Bank 2 sensor 2
P0061 Heated Oxygen sensor heater resistance circuit bank 2 sensor 3
P0062 Heated Oxygen sensor heater control circuit bank 2 sensor 3

Strange to have both banks at the same time?

Any thoughts on:

If the noise and the faults codes could be related. My instinct is not unless it's actually something like a faulty injector.
Should I clear the codes and see what remains after another short run? Aware how often Jags throw a code of so to never be seen again and nothing whatsoever wrong in how the car drives
Just get on with it and buy 1 or 2 more o2 sensors, fit and see how we get on?

Words of wisdom much appreciated, before I spend a few hours in the workshop manual :)
 
With a bunch of codes I’d suggest clearing them and then seeing what comes back.
Also ensuring the battery is fully charged and healthy too.
Once you hear something like that it can’t be un-heard and noise can travel from the source to make you sure it’s coming from a certain point when its actual origin is elsewhere.
Good luck with the diagnosis and let us know how you get on.
 
Lunar said:
With a bunch of codes I’d suggest clearing them and then seeing what comes back.
Also ensuring the battery is fully charged and healthy too.
Once you hear something like that it can’t be un-heard and noise can travel from the source to make you sure it’s coming from a certain point when its actual origin is elsewhere.
Good luck with the diagnosis and let us know how you get on.
Click to expand...

Cheers Lunar. Reinforces my clear codes and see thought. Battery has been on CTEC all day so will check voltage tomorrow, but was good after a good run yesterday
I agree re noises. Rarely where you first think, but just describing as best I can without 20:20 hindsight
 
That's a tough one but I agree, clear the codes and do two driving cycles (I think 2x 20 minutes drive at least from cold) and check again for codes. What fuel do you use, how often the car gets driven? Do you do lots of short journeys? Do you use any fuel injector cleaner? Have any of the Bank 1 or 2 sensors been replaced anytime?

I wonder if the fuel injectors or fuel pump are being overloaded by the missing data from the O2 sensors causing the ticking noise from the car running too rich?

Given the age of the car, some of the connectors may need a clean as well.
 
WShudds said:
That's a tough one but I agree, clear the codes and do two driving cycles (I think 2x 20 minutes drive at least from cold) and check again for codes. What fuel do you use, how often the car gets driven? Do you do lots of short journeys? Do you use any fuel injector cleaner? Have any of the Bank 1 or 2 sensors been replaced anytime?

I wonder if the fuel injectors or fuel pump are being overloaded by the missing data from the O2 sensors causing the ticking noise from the car running too rich?

Given the age of the car, some of the connectors may need a clean as well.
Click to expand...
Interesting thoughts.
Ok so I’ll clear the codes and do some driving, which is hardly a downside.
Car driven weekly, never on short journeys. Italian tune up on a regular basis. Supermarket fuel mixed with some decent stuff every so often. No cleaners and never had anything of this never replaced or flagged up. Full service history and lots of personal tlc (changing supercharger oil, trans fluid, diffs. plugs, etc.)
 
So I cleared all the codes this morning and took the F Type out for a few miles of driving. Performed perfectly, but on return reconnected Carsoft and exactly the same set of codes returned, so clearly not a temp blip.
Any further suggestions else looks like a code by code analysis before looking to visit the garage or try replacing some parts?
 
Thanks Kev, This is very helpful :)

All the codes I have showing are within the PCM/ECM section of Carsoft and referenced in the bulletin
4 of the 7 codes refer directly to the LH & RH oxygen sensors shown as parts 3 & 6 on page 8 of the pdf.
I don't have a MIL light showing, however that could be as codes can take several driving cycles or significant mileage to move to a dashboard warning.
I find it odd that both sides would fail at around the same time, so has to be a cause upstream such as dodgy fuel, cat issue, etc. but at £82 +VAT each (£270+ at JLR) it's probably worth swapping them out. It's also not a big leap of faith that the other codes relate to the same parts.

My concern though is that the bulletin whilst referencing that each of the relevant sensors should be replaced it's also discussed initially as a software problem and also talks of 'calibration' of replacement parts, which goes beyond Carsoft capabilities.

I'm headed more towards getting an indy/specialist to fix it as they will be best placed to not only fit and calibrate, but advise if the original problem of ticking is connected and if not address that too.
 
It does take several drive cycles for the MIL to be illuminated and basic code readers also tend not to show pending codes. If you had a copy of SDD then you could get the suffix on the fault code which would be even more specific. Have you purchased your fuel from somewhere other than your regular place? I go to the same pump which has a high turnover having experienced a water in fuel issue using premium diesel in the van from the same petrol station (Esso)
 
Kev said:
It does take several drive cycles for the MIL to be illuminated and basic code readers also tend not to show pending codes. If you had a copy of SDD then you could get the suffix on the fault code which would be even more specific. Have you purchased your fuel from somewhere other than your regular place? I go to the same pump which has a high turnover having experienced a water in fuel issue using premium diesel in the van from the same petrol station (Esso)
Click to expand...

Yes, aware of codes only becoming MIL lights after several cycles (or a fair few miles). Good knowledge for those trading in cars :)
Last fuel was local Morrisons with huge turnover. Used them for years without problem. Realistically I cannot say it’s an issue from there as I only looked unto codes after the ticking noise which has been there before the refuelling.
 
Booked in for mid next week to get both codes and ticking assessed and resolved.

I’ll update when I have resolution and a no doubt significant bill.
 
CJ if you have a CarSoft LR/Jaguar/3 you should be able to watch the voltage as you drive on a graph, this is very useful, I've just had Bank 1 sensor 3 Low Voltage come up on mine, watched the sensor live and it keeps dropping to 0V, should normally run 1.5V to 0.2V, I compared to Sensor 2 which stays in limits, Mines also booked in... and expecting similar significant bill :D
 
Philskill said:
CJ if you have a CarSoft LR/Jaguar/3 you should be able to watch the voltage as you drive on a graph, this is very useful, I've just had Bank 1 sensor 3 Low Voltage come up on mine, watched the sensor live and it keeps dropping to 0V, should normally run 1.5V to 0.2V, I compared to Sensor 2 which stays in limits, Mines also booked in... and expecting similar significant bill :D
Click to expand...
Unfortunately I have Carsoft 2, so a bit less slick. I purchased it for a specific reason on a LR a couple of years ago and seemed a big step up to V3 for no benefit. Fact it works on the F Type is a bonus.
Fortunately I trust the garage and they will give me an fair assessment and solution.
 
So by way of an update the car has been int he garage for the last 2 days.
On the noise thee is nothing outside of normal that they can identify. Been run on ramp and driven extensively to test.

On the codes, they confirm using better tools that the issue is the rear sensor of the 3 post cat of both banks. Once cleared they again return.
However with no dash light and emissions are perfectly normal they spoke direct to JLR technical who advised not to change the sensors at this stage, but wait and see.
Happy to go with the wait and see approach given the JLR price is £178+ vat each and currently on back order.
 
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