Damaged locking wheel nut removal

NPG33

New member
I had two new front tyres fitted last weekend, after puncturing the left front on a pothole in the Yorkshire Dales, and having a cheap Chinese tyre fitted as the only thing available to get home. The tyre fitter in the Halfords autocentre had trouble removing one of the locking wheel nuts, as the domed cover was spinning independently of the nut. When you could line up the slots on the cover and the rest of the nut, the locking nut tool would slip off with and torque applied. He did eventually get it off with an air impact tool. I wanted him to leave it off, so I could drive the 1 mile home very slowly on the four nuts, and then replace with a standard nut. However, he said he was only allowed to fit tyres if he could successfully torque all nuts to the correct setting. So he first tightened it, then did manage to remove it, fit the tyre, and again insisted it had to be fully torqued before I could leave. I've bought some standard nuts to replace the locking nut, but now I cant get the damaged locking nut off. When the cap and nut are aligned, the tool fits on, but immediately slips when any pressure is applied. Any suggestions as to how to remove please?
I have replaced the other three locking nuts, ironically the right front was only finger tight!
 
There are many national and local specialist companies who can remove them without damage to the rim.
Not used them nor associated, but here’s an example:
https://www.lockingwheelnutremove.co.uk/about-us/
 
I got the domed cap off by cutting a slot in the top with a Dremel and then hitting with a chisel, but I couldn't get the nut undone by hammering a socket on. Called out a specialist wheel nut remover who sorted it in 10 minutes.
 
There are many techniques for removing locking wheel nuts either using tools or a passing ne'er do good. The nuts on my Transit Custom had the silly domed covers which swell up then spin (nothing worse than swollen nuts) so can be rather problematic. My approach was chisel (not a bolster chisel for concrete but one for metal) the cap off for the standard ones then you can again use a chisel to drive the nut round. Tightening the other nuts also helps to relieve some pressure from the stubborn one to help with loosening it. Hammering a socket on can also assist, a 12-point one is best for this. Failing this it's a case of cobalt left handed drill bits, a drill, and patience

If you're keeping locking nuts on your wheels then it may be prudent to invest in a spare key just run case as the teeth on these can sometimes fail. Another precaution is to ensure the tyre fitters don't use an impact gun on the locking nut whilst undoing it. Once it's loose then they can use one so spin it off but it's best to use a breaker bar initially so you can feel things better
 
After losing the locking wheel nut adaptor once and having to work out which code it was for a new one, then buy a new one second hand, i removed them and replaced with standard. Much less hassle.
 
I lost my locking key recently having left it on the wheel and taking a test drive (duh me)
I took the car to Vertu last week and had them removed as they still carry a Master set in their workshops.
Had them replaced with standard nuts, i don't remember the last time i heard about someone having their wheels nicked.
They're more likely now to cut the cats off..
As a side note, i did call Sytner Jaguar in Bristol, they said they dont carry a master set of keys for Jags anymore only for LR
 
This hread has reminded me that I've had 4 standard nuts waiting to replace my locking nuts for many years now! Must get round to it!
 
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